[DML] Emissions Failure

[Dan Haney <DRHANEY@xxxxxxxxxxxx>]

 --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "vin4258" <vin4258@xxxx> wrote:
>
> Unfortunately, Utah does not exempt from emissions testing 
vehicles 
> built after 1967 (why would they when they can get their $25 per 
> vehicle emissions test fee).  Any thoughts on the original 
problem?  
> The car seems to run just fine at all RPMs and starts right up 
every 
> time.  Also, the area where the screw seems to be missing has a 
> raised ring area, where an adjustment screw would seem to fit, but 
> instead of a screw is a deep hole...

On the Front Range of Colorado (Not the Moutains -  Right RadDad!) we also have emissions tests for all cars. Sadly the car needs to be 25 years old to obtain collector plates. Next year, hopefully I will be in Chicago for the celebration!!. But even then you have to have the test every 5 years. Personally I love my Vanity plates "882FUTR" and collector plate would mean giving them up.

Last summer my car failed also and the problem was CO2. Like yours my car ran well, started easy but I completely tuned my car anyway and used an engine analyzer to get the mixture right. It still failed. It turned out to be the charcoal canister. It was saturated due to my car having been running quite rich prior to tune up. Speaking to my mechanic I had one of two choices. Drive the car for a week or two and hopefully let the canister purge and then it should pass or simply disconnect the vacuum hose for the canister and plug it and reroute it back into engine compartment and hide the end. I won't comment on what I did (5th Amendment),  but my car passed better than a new car 1 hour after the 1st test on the same tank of gas and no other changes.... I am not saying I disconnected anything, and I am not advocating anyone bend (break) the law, but everything is as it should be now, the canister hoses are all correct and working as the factory designed!

You may want look at your canister if your mixture is correct and yet the test is telling you that a rich condition exists this may be your problem. Good luck!

Point of interest, prior to this tune-up my car was a real hunter at idle. It used to sound like it was purring ranging from 750-900 RPM's cold or warm. Using an analyzer to get the mixture correct is the only way to go. My car now is rock solid 750 RPMS all of the time at idle, at start up, cold, hot, after miles of driving what an improvement. I've heard some people comment that they thought 750 RPM's was too low even if this is what the factory spec's are. I have no problems with this setting even at Mile High elevation!

Merry Christmas and Happy New year everyone.

Dan Haney
vin 3254 


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