[DML] Fuse # 12 Blues (Tom 10902)

["Alan Roberts" <twodelo2@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

I just found and cured an opposite problem with one of my cars, an open.  That was easier.  You should be able to work the problem by removing diodes to isolate portions of the circuit as you proposed.  There is a hint as to the source of the problem.  Did this happen after having had a door open?

Using M:18:12 in the shop manual (the Door and Inferior Light circuit)  find the diode which has a Purple/Black wire in the cathode side of it.  On the drawing, it is the Lower left hand diode.   Separate one side of the wires from the diode.  Using a VOM or, it you have a small portable 12 volt battery (A very handy tool for trouble shooting) Power the Right hand door circuit (Purple/Black wire)  With the one side of the right hand door switch unplugged, do the door lights work, or is there a short to ground.  The reason I like the portable 12 volt source is that the three lights in parallel (the ones on the door) represent a very low resistance, something you might not be able to see the difference between and a short.
A similar process can be done for the left hand door with the other door isolation diode.  Then find the diode which changes the definition of the door to a jar (small joke) which runs off of fuse # 5.  It sounds like that circuit is sound, but worth a check.  Lastly the top right hand diode which will show if the two interior lights work.  

When the correct time comes in the restoration process, you might seriously think about replacing all lamps in the car, except the turn/brake lights and head lights with LEDs and leave the White "Dome Light Decay" out of the car.  I've found that is a nice enhancement.  It also reduces the battery drain when the doors are jars and or the trunk or engine cover are open.  I hope that I've helped.  

By the way, I can give you what I believe to be the correct info on diode replacements when your interested.

Al
Al Roberts
twodelo2@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
#4649/#16049

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