John, Although I have been trying to stay out of a lot of this fan conversation as it is spread to different areas, I feel compelled to voice some of my person thoughts. You module is not of a totally bad design, it also it not my greatest in my opinion either. As I glance over your web site, you explain how your unit works by saying, (must have changed you page), "cause of the wiring". Which doesn't really explain much to me. I have been able to explain feature by feature how it helps the orgional problems. When I was working on my unit I had talked to individual with 25 years of experiance a few times, and he provided me with real world information on what he wanted to see, from real world happens, not some assumptions you made. I still do not understand how your unit fixes any problems. I mean yes there are 2 relays which is great because of failure, but there not even sealed (and we have seen how unsealed relays hold up in the orgional lock module). You seem to use all crimp on connectors, almost no electrical components. I believe a quality product should incorporate a little more for $140. Each module I sell has a production quality circuit boards, real electronics (go figure), all soldered connections, and a real method I could explain to anyone how and why it helps the car out. I believe if I grabbed 2 people at random, and showed them both our units opened, they would see mine as a quality production unit. And David is right, you get what you pay for, and yes any sophisticated electronic unit has a higher initial failure then a few spade connectors and 2 relays. Everyone has had a bad electronic device in there time, but once replaced it last for years. This should not be a battle over who built what better. If Fanzilla was around I never would have built my unit. But they were not for me, so we move on. In comparison to you I built a better mouse, with information from individuals who have worked on the cars since they were new. When Fanzillia's are back, I'm sure my production will stop. Lets just give all of this up, you have the market for the lower cost unit, and mine for the slighty more expensive. -Shain -----Original Message----- From: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of John Hervey Sent: Monday, October 24, 2005 11:13 PM To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Subject: RE: [DML] Re: Zilla David, >From what Tom is saying there should never be a failure if it is tested properly and tested over many, many cars. Even thought the instructions say works on stock wiring and you don't know the condition or if it's stock or not. You plug it in and in a short while it fails for some reason. Then, I am hearing that the Zilla's never fail. Then you just said one failed. Am I missing something. I have had 2 fail out of 200 and both are fuse holders that failed, nothing else and in talking with the factory could have been their manufacturing error. They are rated 30 amp and on a max of 15 amp draw should have worked just fine. I'm looking at the Bussmann catalog and black fuse holders are rated 20 amps. I'm a little confused over such a bad product I build. Again, I know the Zilla has been around for a long time and has a good track record, but everything as to start somewhere at sometime. So, let's look back in a year and see how the new Box is going to do. John Hervey [moderator snip] To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address: moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: dmcnews-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/