RE: [DML] FanZilla versus the Ebay competitor for Fan Controller Idle Stall

["Shain" <dsmguy@xxxxxxx>]

[Moderator Note: DMLers are always welcome to disagree with each other as long as you keep it polite.  Please be careful about escalating this discussion.  - Mike Substelny, DML moderator of the week]


John,

I was reply to a post about the topic, which is also in a the subject line
of this discussion, the fan unit on ebay.  I am not trying to bash your
unit, unlike some replies I have received.  I was simply commenting on the
ebay units design of an unknown builder. As well as suggesting a way to
improve on your design, if I saw a particular flaw. What we talk about on
the phone, is off this discussion, thank you.  Current ranging from around
15 amps initial, and 8 amp continuous load, is quite capable of being
sustained on stock wiring.  After all the engineers of the car were not
totally off topic, and knew what the current ratings of the wires in the car
could handle. 

The main problem with the car has never been if the fans come on,  the
simple relay setup in the car allowed for this.  It's the initial pull of
current, in my case 15 amps instantaneous, or in your module 30 amps
instantaneous.  It can damage electrical components, alternators, batteries
and possible stall the car out on warm days with the a/c running.  A large
amount of owners believe that the fan just stop working,  this is not the
case.  My unit attempts to bring the load on the car up and down at a
gradual pace, similar to going from a temperature from 100 degrees, to 90,
to 80....  Similarly, backwards for initial startup.  Yours goes from 70 to
100 degrees.  I don't know about you but your body would like to acclimatize
to a temperature slowly, then being shocked.  This is the same for
electrical systems.

Please do not contribute anymore if it is going to be negative.  I was only
trying to inform a possible buyer of this ebay unit of a possible design
flaw in the unit.  Although I would like to see inside of one.  A while ago
I posted schematics for a free fan sequencer, and would like to see if it
uses my design.  Since I am the only one I know of that has contributed free
information on how to build a fan module.

-Shain 

-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of
John Hervey
Sent: Friday, October 21, 2005 7:23 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: RE: [DML] FanZilla versus the Ebay competitor for Fan Controller
Idle Stall

Shain, 
What do you mean you were not talking about me, You told me over the phone
that you and Rob didn't like it. You change the inrush current which last
maybe 1 or 2 milliseconds but you don't change the run current where the
damage is done. Keep the hot wire away from the cars wiring loom which is
what I do and rest better. Staggering is to me more of a cover up of other
problems that exist. Eliminate the high inrush current or run current and
then you have done something. Until then any device used in the fan circuit
is a temporary fix.  
John Hervey


-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of
Shain
Sent: Friday, October 21, 2005 6:05 AM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: RE: [DML] FanZilla versus the Ebay competitor for Fan Controller
Idle Stall

John,

Although I was not talking about your unit,  it is configured similarly.
Actually it is easier to mount a fusible link right after the battery, then
drilling holes in the vehicle.  Also by staggering the activation of each
fan you reducing the current flow in the wire loom,  so it will never come
close to reaching 60 amps.

-Shain

[long quote trimmed by moderator]




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