On Sep 29, 2005, at 12:10 PM, David Teitelbaum wrote: > The biggest problem you will face in fixing the washer pump will be > getting all of those little hex head screws out without having the > rivnuts spinning. I recommend that before you even attempt to remove these screws for the first time, you spray a lot of penetrating oil up there and wait 24 hours. Those rivnuts can be a real pain. > Expect the motor to be bad but you MUST check at the > plug to verify power and ground. It could just be full of gunk. It is > easily cleaned out with hot water and rinsing it several times. A typical cause of failed, rusty motors is that the little drain holes on the bottom of the enclosure get plugged up and the pump ends up spending its life under water. I strongly suggest drilling a few larger holes in the bottom of the enclosure. Also, I have attempted to disassemble, clean, and reuse grungy pumps. It is easy to get them to run, but they don't last. Just buy a new one. > Leak-test and operate it before putting ALL the screws back. Hear, hear! > If you do > not get a good spray either the hose is pinched/kinked, or the tiny > hole in the sprayer tip is plugged up. Yes, do check the sprayer tip. Once I took mine apart and cleaned it, the spray was as good as any other car's. -Pete Lucas VIN #06703 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address: moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: dmcnews-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/