I too have had frustrating problems with my door seals. I have Grady's set and they've yet to properly break in (after being installed for several YEARS). Of course, installation seems to be a bit of a voodoo art that doesn't seem to be very documented. Rob mentioned to me a procedure that they use that reshapes the seal mount in the trouble areas (pretty much the area around the headliner). I *believe* that they grind the seal mount in such a way that it is effectively angled outward and keeps the seal from being pinched. I made some notes on the process years ago but they're long gone and I've been unsuccessful at wringing the procedure out of them since. Until I can get it sorted out, I've moved the passenger seal off the mounting and wedged it between the lip and the windshield glass (I never drive in the rain). Door closes smooth as glass now... ...and half the reason it closes so smoothly is because I screwed around with the stiker pins for so long with bad seal fittment. This includes grinding away a part of the rear captive nut area so I could get the pin another 1-2mm up and away from the body (see my previous threads on lost captive nut :). All that work never made a real difference in assisting the seal fittment, but the door shuts so smoothly now that you think it's not actually latching. -Luke 10270 To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address: moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: dmcnews-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/