Since you're taking my name in vain, I'll chime in. ;-) If your symptoms seem that similar to mine, and you've checked everything else (which it seems like you have), I'd definitely start looking at the ignition. How do you check plug wire resistance? With an ohm meter or multi- meter. All you do is set the meter for the "thousands" scale and place one probe on each end (you have to remove the wire to do this). I like digital ohm or multi-meters best. Plain, store-bought wires are around 1200 ohms (1.2k ohms) per wire. If you're reading O.L, "open" or "infinite" resistance, then the wire is worn beyond use or broken. I bought John Hervey's low resistance, silicone wires. They are about 650 ohms per foot so they're between 650 and 800 ohms. Check your spark plugs. Are they fouled? Is the electrode worn more than it should be? Remove your cap and rotor. Are they heavily carbon scored? Is your distributor cap cracked? (check for fine cracks). All my stuff was less than a year old when it failed. Why? Because the wires were not of sufficient quality, and I over-gapped the plugs causing extra wear at the rotor and cap. I was using a hot coil thinking I was smarter than the engineers who built the engine. If you want to upgrade your ignition, buy DMCH's kit. It's researched and tested. Otherwise, follow the bible specs like a good little DeLorean disciple and avoid the wrath of the DMC-ordained high-priests. ;-) Sorry for the long post. I hope you get it sorted out. Rich A. #5335 --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Jeremiah Montee <angelito03299@xxxx> wrote: > Ok guys, here we go with my new problem. > > Start the car - cranks and fires right away. Idles > beautifully, lambda system unhooked and air/fuel screw > adjusted for "perfect" steady idle. Lightly push the > accelerator, car runs ok. Push the pedal to 1200 > rpms+ (I would guess about 1/4 push down on the > pedal), and the engine stutters heavily, cylinders > popping on and off completely randomly, extreme engine > bogdown. If the car maintains a steady speed and the > pedal is pressed firmly while keeping a slowly > incrasing speed, the engine is strong and runs great. > If the pedal is pushed very hard and firm from a dead > stop, the car almost loses power completely; one can > feel the car almost give up it loses so much power. > > This is with the engine cold, warm, or hot - anytime. > My symptoms sound EXTREMELY similar if not identical > to Rich Acuti's article on "General Tuneup Issues" at > http://dmcnews.com/Techsection/tuneup.html . > [moderator snip] To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address: moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: dmcnews-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/