Dani, Again I think you need to KNOW about the CPR instead of guessing about it. I would suggest getting a CIS fuel pressure test set (John Hervey will loan you his.) and then you will KNOW if the CPR is good or bad. Of course you could just replace it with a new one, but having the CIS test set will also let you have a look at such things as the dead-head pressure of the fuel pump, control pressures, and how well the fuel system retains pressure when shut down. (Tests the accumulator and check valve in fuel pump.) A dead short inside the CPR would cause the meltng you describe. Take an ohmmeter and check out the heater. It may be shorted out. If it is then just get a new CPR. Otherwise get a CIS fuel pressure test set and find out what is actually going on in your car in terms of primary and control pressure when the car is cold and as it warms up. Not having the heater wires connected to the CPR would just mean it will take longer to warm up. What does that mean to your problem? Well it means your car will run RICH (ah ha!) until the motor is warm enough to deflect the bi-metal strip inside the CPR. Until that happens your control pressure will stay low and the car will run RICH, RICH, RICH! In your case it is possible that the strip is jammed inside the CPR keeping the control pressure from ever rising. So you may be onto at least part of your problem with the CPR. Ohm out the heater element and get a new CPR if it is bad. If that checks out okay (which it probably won't if the wires are burned) then cheheck it out furtehr with a CIS test set, or just write a check for a new CPR. Before replacing the CPR make sure you see heater voltage on the (disconnected) connector when starting the car COLD. With the wires burned the way they are taht may not be working anymore. Good luck. -Joe Kuchan >From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-@xxxxxxx> >Reply-To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx >To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx >Subject: [DML] Re: Can someone explain this? (distributor positioning) >Date: Mon, 08 Aug 2005 04:30:35 -0000 > >Thank you to everyone who responded to my message and helping me with >my ongoing troubles! Driving the car home it was running so bad >[rich] that the only way I could make it idle and drive was to unplug >the frequency valve from the bulkhead-and the car behaves somewhat >normal now except still a misfire. Will unplugging this damage >anything? Now I'll slow down and list the things I've replaced and my >findings when scouting around the engine bay; maybe someone can >identify an additional problem from my observations. > [moderator snip] To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address: moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: dmcnews-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/