Thank you to everyone who responded to my message and helping me with my ongoing troubles! Driving the car home it was running so bad [rich] that the only way I could make it idle and drive was to unplug the frequency valve from the bulkhead-and the car behaves somewhat normal now except still a misfire. Will unplugging this damage anything? Now I'll slow down and list the things I've replaced and my findings when scouting around the engine bay; maybe someone can identify an additional problem from my observations. I just took the intake off the other day, and the air passages of the mixture unit and intake were covered with black sludge [dirty air filter from PO?]. The intake ports [in the heads] were clean on the bottoms, but sides and tops have black soot, almost like carbon that's burned on, whatever it was- it was hard to clean off. I have the aftermarket filter from John Hervey, I keep it very clean so I'm imaging the gummy black stuff was accumulated over the course of the last 24 years. All plugs had carbon on them indicating a rich (?) mixture. I rebuilt the mixture control unit to make sure there was nothing leaking air, sure enough #102772 was leaking [now fixed]. Upon inspection of the cap; the contacts were burned so I put on a new cap with the old rotor, I'm still waiting for the new one to come in [just ran to advance for these]. I just rebuilt the distributor [ignition] plus I have another one on the way which I'm going to swap with mine as well as a new tach wire. I tested the cold start valve and frequency valve, crimped and made sure everything is connecting well. I've replaced the plugs, wires, rotor 2 years ago (>6KMI on these). I just did the cap, and I replaced the lambda sensor 1 year ago. The CPR I've never replaced and many people have told me this could be one of my problems. So if you know me-like anything else that doesn't work-I ripped it off and opened it up to see if I could fix it. Fried wires; the white one (not the one with the green wrap on it) coming from the contact of the plug- melted the cover right off, and the second white wire that goes to the connector on the bolt was missing a good section that looked as if a good short blew it apart. So I found at least one of my problems, but what would cause this to happen? Without the heating parts working inside could this cause many of my described problems? Is there anything I should or can do or unplug to compensate for the bad CPR? I will check out the spark wires tomorrow, yeah I'm good with rebuilding engines and transmissions etc, but even a rocket scientist can cross a wire; it's that easy to do. I'm actually hoping that's what I did! I figured I may as well see if any of the wires are dead while I'm at it. I'll test the fuel pressures, voltages and ignition components as well. Hopefully after all of this I'll have a trouble-free car again! Also when it comes to CO adjustments, I can go the full range between rich and lean, and the FV doesn't wanna run continuously, but more at an erratic pace. If I push in the full throttle switch only then does it run continuously and sound `healthy'. Is this because of the CPR? By the way, I'm doing all the tests and adjusting with the O2 sensor unplugged just incase. Thanks again for ALL the help, explanations and answers! -----Dani B. #5003 To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address: moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: dmcnews-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/