Re: [DML] More problems found (was Piston rings + sleeves)

["stainlessilusion" <5n-@xxxxxxx>]

Now that the car is in the garage and defrosting, I'll be able to
check everything tomorrow-tonight I just did some more checking around
and discovered something else... with my gas pedal down all the way,
the assembly on the engine doesnt open all the way, in fact, it is
more then an inch away from the full throttle switch! I've gone over a
few photos and see that the cable is routed differently but I can't
find the correct routing anywhere in the book. There seems to be 2
places to screw the cable into, mine is screwed into the back bottom
spot obviously instead of the top...I've uploaded a picture to show
how far it was opening...and to imagine-I was driving this car like
this for months! wonder what it will be like once it is able to
operate correctly. Anyone know where to find the correct routing??
-----Dani B. #5003    http://damngoodsite.net/5003damage.html


--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxx> wrote:
> 
> Dave,
> 
> You are correct on all of your suggestions but I would like to add
the
> following concerning engine timing. 
> 
> To Dani B.; Dave is correct about checking the engine timing, but if
it's
> off, don't readjust it. The PRV-6 timing does not drift out of
operating
> range. If you're having problems with performance issues I would not
suggest
> to fool with the timing unless it was adjusted after the engine
started
> running poorly. Here is an example. Over the years I have found
that the
> factory setting of the timing will remain within 2 degrees of the
specified
> +/-13 degrees even in cars that are receiving post 75k mile tune
up's.   
> 
> DMC Joe
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Dave Sontos [mailto:dsontos@xxxx] 
> Sent: Saturday, January 15, 2005 9:34 AM
> To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: RE: [DML] More problems found (was Piston rings + sleeves)
> 
> 
> 
> First off only perform vacuum checks when the engine is at full
operating
> temperature. 
> 
> With the engine off move the throttle slightly open and you should
hear the
> idle speed switch click closed. If you don't hear it click you may
have to
> adjust the screw on the throttle arm to engage the switch at the
throttle
> closed position. This switch shuts off the vacuum to the
distributor at
> idle. Correctly adjusted the engine idle should reduce to the
750-950 RPM
> rate when the switch is engaged.
> 
> Check the ignition timing. It should be close to 13 degrees.
> 
> When was the last time the engine had a complete tuneup?
(sparkplugs,
> distributer cap, spark plug wires, rotor, replaced fuel injectors)
> 
> The vacuum line coming from the rear of the left side of the intake
manifold
> goes under the intake manifold to a thermo vacuum switch where it
> distributes vacuum to the CPR and the distributor. At engine
temperatures
> below 104 degrees F the vacuum switch is open to the CPR valve to
provide
> fuel enrichment to the cold engine.
> 
> Dave Sontos
> Vin 02573
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: stainlessilusion [mailto:5n-@xxxxxxx]
> Sent: Friday, January 14, 2005 8:23 PM
> To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: [DML] More problems found (was Piston rings + sleeves)
> 
> Yes so I had a chance to check out a few things on my DeLorean
today.
> While I didn't get a chance to check out the compression yet- This
is what I
> come up with- first of all, when I push on the adjustment screw for
the idle
> speed sensor switch, the car idles lower-meaning that for some
reason the
> plates arent closing to give a slower idle. Bad srpring? Secondly,
when I
> take the vac line off of the distributor advance and hold the
accelerator at
> say 3-4 thousand RPMs, it is smooth running, when I put the vac line
back
> on, it is rough holding any RPM. There is no vacuum in this line
when the
> car is idling-which is normal. Lastly, the CPR-there are 2 vacuum
lines
> going to this, one of which uses a delay valve, but both meet at a
"T"
> fitting. I pulled the main line off the "T" where it comes from
underneith
> the manifold and there is no vacuum at all, is this supposed to be?
I
> checked this out while the engine was both cold and warm. The vacuum
line
> coming from the back of the intake that goes to the barbs really
isn't that
> powerful-I'm not sure if this is normal or not. What really gets me
is the
> distributor advance deactivated-why would it clear up the running
of the
> engine-something wrong inside the distributor? I've been driving
this car
> for years with a bad advance unit and once I put one in I've had
this rough,
> vibrating running engine at any RPM. When the engine is cold it runs
> extremely smooth, once warm is when I get all the problems and hard
> starting. Likely my ported vac switch is bad??
> Thanks for the help guys -----Dani B. #5003








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