Re: [DML] 15W40 oil brand -- LONG POST

[kayoong@xxxx]

Andy and all:

My experiences with the different oils in my DeLorean #5508.

I purchased my #5508 in April 1996 with 12,000 miles on the odometer and I 
have logged over 106,000 miles since then.   

When I first brought the #5508 it was sitting for a good part of its life 
although it was driven periodically around the block to "move" the parts.  

As soon as I owned #5508, I immediately changed the oil and the oil filter 
using Castrol Oil "Blend" 10W-30, which is half petroleum and synthetic oil 
mixture. At the same time, I also had changed the fuel pump, the rubber housing, 
fuel hoses on top of the tank, the fuel filter and the fuel sender unit (the 
TankZilla). Along with the a new battery, wipers, FanZilla, Lockzilla, all 
new gas struts for the doors, engine and truck lids, new oxygen sensor and a 
complete tune which included cap, rotor, wires and spark plugs. Changed the 
coolant and bled the system to make sure there was no air trapped. Bled to 
flush the brake fluid and to make sure there was no air. Check the tires for the 
correct air pressure and then washed #5508. Last, we took some pictures.   
I then said "good bye" to my good friend where the seller had left #5508 in 
storage in his garage, the suburb of Detroit. I jumped in #5508 and drove 
#5508 all the way home -- All the way from Detroit to New York City -- In part 
sunshine, then it start to rain and snow during the rest of the trip. I got 
#5508 home in NYC with just a minor electrical problem; it was the interior 
light switch not touching the door, so the interior light was flickering, so I did 
a manual override to shut the lights. I got home in less then eight hours 
for 600 plus miles of driving.

Two days later, I took #5508 to Rob at PJ Grady for a complete check up and 
whatever #5508 needed, it got it. I had changed or updated many parts, even 
though many of the parts were still working, for I wanted a problem free 
vehicle.

Since then, I have changed my engine oil religiously (when I can between) 
2,500 to 3,000. Because, I drive my car every day to work as well as on extreme 
long trips, I make sure everything is up to par and working correctly and the 
engine and tranny oil getting its periodically changes, is a must. The 
different brands of oils that I have used have been all synthetic oils, forI 
wanted to test how the different oils behave in the PVR. I have used allthe 
different oils listed more then once, in the different seasons and the driving 
conditions that #5508 was subjected to.   

They are the Castrol Syntec 5W-50; Redline 10W-40; Quaker State 5W-50 and 
10W-30; Mobil1 10W-30 and 15W-50.   
    
Of all the oils, I do like is the Quaker 10W-30, but I have to change it 
earlier, between 2,000 and 2,500 miles, for *I* feel the engine is laboringbeyond 
those mileages -- I believe the oil is "braking" down. I find that the 
Castrol Syntec 5W-50 it is a good oil, but it does not give me the best *feeling* 
when the engine is driven "hard," especially on long trips when the engine is 
hot, for it feels like the Quaker 10W-30. At the present, I am running on 
Mobil1 15W-50 which has given me decent service for the last five oils changes.

FWIW ... I used six quarts of the synthetic oil and one quart of Marvel 
Mystery Oil .... Please don't start to flame me on my practices of using Marvel 
Mystery Oil. My engine is running fine with no oil being lost or burnt, the oil 
level still sits between the two marks, pretty much at the same place at each 
oil and filter change since my ownership. My tail pipe is *still* a clean 
light gray with no black soot and I still pass New York State's Emission Test, 
including the mandatory dynamo test. The Marvel Mystery Oil is a practice, 
that I have being doing with all my cars especially with my 1957 S-1 Bentley 
for the last 32 years -- It is also a practice that is performed by the many 
Rolls Royce and Bentley mechanics of yester years, whom I have learnt it from.   
My S-1 Bentley's motor is using standard dino-petro motor oil, for that is 
recommended and it is best for the motor's internal components and the gaskets; 
non recommended oils "wickers" the different gaskets in the engine which can 
cause "leaks." The Bentley's 6 cylinder 4.5 liter motor takes eleven quarts 
of oil!   

The DeLorean's PVR is a fairly modern engine and synthetic oils where around 
during its inception, so there should be no adversities with the internal 
components or the gaskets. So far with so good and no valve tappet noises 
whether hot or cold with good normal operating oil pressure. BTW.... I have three 
plus quarts of RedLine MTL in standard tranny too. MTL is a synthetic oil.  
MTL will get rid of the dino-petro smell during the hot weather conditions, 
while it shift nicely and smoothly in the extreme cold weather. A bit 
expensive..... BUT WORTH IT!

As a habit when I change the engine and tranny oils, I do a visual inspection 
in the old oil for the different color metal flakes or particles that is 
usually associate for wear and tear. I check my oil drain plugs too for my plugs 
have magnet to pick up the ferrous particles. I also "open" the oil filter 
to see what's is in it and there have been no signs of premature wear of 
metal flakes or particles in the engine oil filter. Again, so far so good.....

So.... I hope that helps.

Kayo Ong
#5508
Lic 9D NY

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In a message dated 1/3/04 9:53:07 PM, Soma576@xxxx writes:


> 
> Why can't any information here agree?? Personally, i have been using mobil
> 10w40, but i think i might go to mobil 1 15W40 next season.? At least the 
> 15W40
> is listed for summertime temperatures in the owner's manual AND the Workshop
> manual.? I fear that 20W50 may be a little too thick for those of us inthe
> upper part of the US, even if we don't drive our cars in the winter time.? 
> there
> are many days even in the summer when the temps go below 64F at night.?Not
> only that, but a thicker oil will make it harder to get good gas mileage or
> maximum performance on a low compression non-race engine such as our PRV's 
> (though
> I have to admit that the PRV is a 'loose' engine and could benefit from a
> thicker oil/longer drain intervals).?
> 
> any other thoughts?? has anyone switched grades each season or oil change to
> note performance or starting differences?
> 
> Andy
> 
> 



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