In addition to all this good advice Rob Grady taught me a "trick" uses. He grinds the front edge undercutting it to tip the lip of the seal foward. It is hard to explain exactly but in essance it gives the seal more room and the door rubs against it less so the seal will last longer. He also sells the seals in different heights so you can get a better fit. Of course this is assuming you are buying the seals from a Delorean vender and are getting the correct profile in the first place. When you order the seals tell the vender you are getting them from your problem and they will help you with correcting it. Under NO circumstances attempt to adjust the doors to improve the seal fit. If the doors open and close nicely and the gaps on the panels is pretty even all around, the doors are OK. You may need to adjust the anchor pins. With new seals installed you may not get the doors to close right if the anchor pins where adjusted for the old, worn, seals. David Teitelbaum vin 10757 --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, tobyp@xxxx wrote: > This sounds like you need to trim the fiberglass flange down a bit > in the areas where the seal is being split. Some cars have a "tall" > flange on the underbody, and this can lead to overcompression of the > seal. You can trim off up to about a quarter inch, reinstall the > seal, and see if this problem continues. Careful not to trim so > much that the seal has nothing to grip to. One way to be a little > more "scientific" about it is to remove the seal, apply some lumps > of modeling clay to the door surface that normally touches the seal, > and then close the door. Then, open it back up, and measure the > clay thickness. I think that you will find that it gets very thin