There are 18 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: DeLorean in tv promo
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
2. Fuel Lines
From: MichaelRPack1@xxxxxx
3. RE: What engine oil should I use?
From: "Video Bob" <videobob@xxxxxxxxxxx>
4. 915 Porsche tranny install complete
From: "at88mph" <at88mph@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
5. Re: Lower Control Arm Links
From: tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx
6. RE: Re: Prototype (and other early Deloreans)
From: "Dom Diaz" <dom_diaz@xxxxxxxxxxx>
7. Re: What engine oil should I use?
From: "hodakaguy" <hodakaguy@xxxxxxxxx>
8. For Sale: 81 DeLorean vin# 01063 Super Nice! Must See WA
From: "hodakaguy" <hodakaguy@xxxxxxxxx>
9. Re: Prototype Delorean AGAIN!
From: "fivetwofive" <CBL302@xxxxxxx>
10. Re: Re: delorean spark plug leads
From: simon trotter <simonsays10002003@xxxxxxxxxxx>
11. delorean door seals
From: "simonsays10002003" <simonsays10002003@xxxxxxxxxxx>
12. delorean door seals
From: "simonsays10002003" <simonsays10002003@xxxxxxxxxxx>
13. Re: Prototype Delorean AGAIN!
From: "spaceace3113" <spaceace3113@xxxxxxxxx>
14. TV sighting
From: Louie Golden <louie@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
15. New, Untitled Delorean in Dallas - 126 miles - black / auto
From: "Robert Moseley" <videobob@xxxxxxxxxxx>
16. DeLorean Door Seals...
From: "TalksToGod" <5n-@xxxxxxx>
17. Re: DeLorean Door Seals...
From: tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx
18. Re: delorean door seals
From: "Bill Lane" <blane@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Tue, 23 Dec 2003 04:38:06 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DeLorean in tv promo
Make sure you get a "Certifacate of Insurance" with you named as
insured from the production company. Your regular insurance will not
cover any damages to the car while it is in their possesion. You
should document and have them agree on the condition of the car BEFORE
they touch it so if there is ANY damage they can't say it was there
before. They should arrange ALL transportation and provide security
for the car. Ask to be included in the credits. Sometimes they will
also provide you with a copy of the filming if you ask. Try to get
everything in writing. Generally they pay a lot more for using a car
and driving it than just a static display. To get a car to spin the
wheels they spray tire coating on the treads and wet the road. Be VERY
careful after that as the tires will spin very easily till it wears off.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "d_rex_2002" <rich@xxxx> wrote:
> Andrew,
>
> If you can set the conditions of the promotion, go for it.
> Best thing to insist on is having a wet paved surface for
> the area where it will be filmed. You mentioned that the
> tires are due to be replaced, so that should help the spin
> capabilities. You did not mention if your car was stick or
> automatic, but I'm guessing it's a 5-speed.
>
> It's very easy to get the rear end to come around on a
> 5-speed car on a wet surface by just using more throttle.
> I did this all the time on rainy days with my first Delorean
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 2
Date: Mon, 22 Dec 2003 23:43:28 EST
From: MichaelRPack1@xxxxxx
Subject: Fuel Lines
Are the metal fuel lines that sit on the frame, assessable when the body has
been lifted off of the chassis, still available?
I am considering a stainless frame and would like to change the lines out.
Sincerely,
Michael
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Message: 3
Date: Mon, 22 Dec 2003 23:40:01 -0600
From: "Video Bob" <videobob@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: What engine oil should I use?
I just had this long discussion with John Hervey at SpecialTauto tonight....
We were discussing the "best" oil filters, etc, (which may be revealed in
another post)
but we both came to the conclusion that you should use what is recommended
in the manual
which is 20/50.
The lower grades are for very low climates, and last I checked Alabama does
not keep an
average temperature of 14F and below, which is the temperature you would use
a 10W grade in.
My oil experiences come from owning Harley Davidson's, which have air, or
technically OIL
cooled engines. They use 20/50.
Because the PRV engine runs hot, and the aluminum can quickly dissipate the
heat it requires a thicker viscosity oil to maintain good lubrication.
The lower grades turn into a thin layer of water.
This can lower compression and cause the engine to run hotter because of the
extra friction.
The thicker oil creates a better seal between the piston rings and the
cylinder walls, and coats
better and can take the high RPM's.
The brand is your choice, I have always preferred Pennzoil or Valveoline
myself.
Usually, 20/50 is used in racing or motorcycle engines, and is classified as
either
heavy duty, racing or motorcycle oil.
You could use the motorcycle blend, or another version that is called:
GT PERFORMANCE 20W-50 MOTOR OIL
You can read about this type of oil here:
http://www.pzlqs.com/Tech/Pdsheet/DomesticMarketing/EngineOils/pdf/GTPerformance20W50.PDF
You could also try:
PENNZOIL HD MOTOR OIL
http://www.pzlqs.com/Tech/Pdsheet/DomesticMarketing/EngineOils/pdf/HD.pdf
I don't know off hand if there is a 20/50 synthetic other than Harley
Davidson's SYN-3 oil,
which is what I put in my bike, but it is $8.00 per quart.
In a Delorean it would cost you about $70.00 in oil, so it may not be
practical for you.
I know that Valveoline makes a full Synthetic, and I think they make it in
20/50 but I
have not seen it for myself yet, I will check into that.
Keep in mind, synthetic is a change that you need to keep.
Either do it or don't but don't flip flop back and forth.
You need to stick with it once you make the change.
If your car has that many miles, you might want to try a little "Engine
Restorer".
They sell this at any Wal-Mart and it comes in a silver can.
It is a little expensive, but I use it in all of my cars and it makes a big
difference.
It is designed to fill in all the little scratches in the cylinder walls and
increase the compression.
I always put in a can of this, along with some Slick-50, and some "Marvel
Mystery Oil" in both
the oil and gas.
I do this in all of my cars and they are all in top shape.
I change my oil every 2500 or so.
You want to change your oil BEFORE it turns black.
If it turns black, it has broken down and failed already.
The black you are seeing is burnt carbon in the oil.
It's cooked.
As soon as you see the oil turning brown and getting stinky I change it.
Same goes with all fluids.
Preventative maintenance is the key to a long running engine.
Of course, these are just examples and suggestions.
Everyone will have a different view point on this subject I am sure.
Good luck.
- Videobob
VIN#5278
>From: casey barlow <dmc1288mph@xxxxxxxxx>>
>Hi List, I drive my Delorean almost every day, and I
>wanted to know what is the best weight of engine oil
>to use. Iam running 20W-50 Castrol right now, should I
>run a 10W-40,10W-30 or is the 20W-50 alright? I live
>in lower Alabama and my car has about 150,000 miles
>and is still running strong.Iam not sure what the
>owner before me ran in the car. I am also running a
>lucas oil additive. Thanks, Casey VIN# 3270
>
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Message: 4
Date: Tue, 23 Dec 2003 01:06:48 -0600
From: "at88mph" <at88mph@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: 915 Porsche tranny install complete
Welp today, after 2 months, the Porsche 915 5 speed tranny is complete and
installed into my DeLorean mounted to the Chevy Vortec 4.3. For those
interested in a similar swap I have to admit, it was quite a bit harder than
the engine swap. On a scale of 1 to 10 (10 being the hardest) I'd rate the
trans swap at a 7. The hardest part BY FAR was engineering the shifter to
work properly. The total on the swap was under $2k and roughly $500 of that
was because my car was a automatic originally and I had to get some DeLorean
parts (i.e. the pedals/master and slave cylinder; however I ended up not
using the stock slave cylinder)
With the engine swap, I didn't do anything that couldn't be reversed so that
the stock engine could be put back in one day if I wanted to. (however
after the first drive in the car with the new engine I realized that I won't
go back to the stock motor) With the 915 tranny though, some fabricating
involved cutting SOME of the frame to mount the shifter and also for the
u-joint that attaches to the front of the Porsche transmission so I can't go
back with the stock auto tranny without re-welding in a plate to mount the
stock shifter again. (But, as with the engine swap, I won't be going back to
the stock auto) The Porsche unit is a VERY nice and smooth gearbox.
TRANSMISSION:
For those interested, here's how the swap went. I found a Porsche 915
transmission for a REALLY good price on one of the Porsche message boards.
It was out of a '72 model and is perfect because it has no computer
controls...its just a 5 speed gearbox. Its also widely available and parts
aren't expensive for the 915. The trans fits very well into the DeLorean
frame and mounts up PERFECTLY to the stock DMC half shafts with no
modifications! I had to have a custom transmission mount fabbed up. It
incorporates the stock DMC mounts (where they bolt to the DMC frame) and
also the Porsche trans mount. I also had to get the 915 shifter housing and
shift rod.
BELLHOUSING/STARTER/CLUTCH
I found out that some Porsche owners do V8 engine swaps and that a lot of
kit car owners use Porsche/VW transmissions to mount up V8's to. I found a
place called Kennedy Engineering that makes bellhousings for all kinds of
Porsche/VW swaps. http://www.kennedyeng.com/ They had EXACTLY what I
needed; a Porsche to Chevy bellhousing. I also bought a stock Porsche 915
clutch setup and ring gear from them. I'm also using the stock 915 starter.
There are also other places that make these bellhousing kits but Kennedy was
VERY helpful and they were a lot cheaper than the other places as well.
Their customer service is EXCELLENT and their pieces are VERY high quality.
SHIFT ROD/HOUSING:
The 915 shifter housing sits PERFECTLY into the frame of the DMC like it was
meant to be there! The Porsche is a very simple setup b/c they just pretty
much have a straight shift rod that goes from the shifter to the tranny. (no
cables or anything, just a straight rod) I had to cut the 915 shift rod
because it was MUCH too long for the DMC frame. On the DMC though, there is
a down angle, of course, from where the DMC shifter goes back to the tranny.
This is where the major pain came into effect. Long story short, it was a
very simple fix, we had to weld a swivel in the middle of the shift rod so
that it would give me a down angle for it. That stumped me for a while and
thinking back, it was really simple but hindsight is always 20/20.
HYDRAULICS:
The 915 tranny is actually a 'pull type' setup and is mechanical, not
hydraulic. However, the clutch fork rod (what the cable would have pulled)
sits on a spline and the fork can be taken off and moved in very small
incraments. If you could see the Porsche 915 tranny in a Porsche, the
clutch fork rod would be on the driver's side....what I did was remove the
rod and (since its splined) I turned it around so its now on the passenger
side which now turns it into a 'push type' setup instead of a pull setup. I
then purchased a stock DMC master cylinder and I went to the parts store to
look thru their slave cylinders. I found a slave that was the same size as
the DMC master cylinder to get a 1 to 1 ratio. I then fabed up a bar to
mount it to the tranny and ran a bendable brake line from the master to the
slave. (this part was very simple and only took about 4 hours total to make
and assemble) It worked perfectly. Now I have a very durable tranny that
is cheap to repair or replace mounted to an engine that is dependable and
cheap to fix as well. Also the fact that I now have 5 speeds instead of a 3
speed auto. I'm very pleased with it so far, but it has only been complete
for one day but I'm hoping that I'll be just as happy with it in 6 months
from now and even longer. I was/am very happy with the engine swap and
hopefully the tranny swap will be as enjoyable.
Take care,
Duke
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Message: 5
Date: Tue, 23 Dec 2003 07:34:57 -0000
From: tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Lower Control Arm Links
Rich - That would be me and Winged1 (my car). As far as I know,
this is the only example of this mod. I wanted to find out what
effect a triangulated lower control arm support setup would have on
handling and stability during heavy braking. I am very pleased with
the result, although there is a little more road noise transmitted
through the links into the frame. They allow full range of vertical
motion in the front suspension, and yet do a great job of preventing
fore / aft motion during braking and in hard corners. They are kind
of ugly in prototype form. I used mild steel tube for the link
bodies, and some very hi-tech spherical rod ends. These links have
been on the car for over a year, and my last inspection showed no
adverse loading to the frame or the lower control arms. My next
version will use stainless steel tubes. I haven't yet decided if I
am going to promote this modification in a kit form ... I need to
work on getting some cost out of the rod ends before it would be
realistic to produce this setup. The original idea was to eliminate
the front sway bar function as a locating feature of the control
arms, but I haven't attempted to detach the sway bar yet to test the
concept. That way, the sway bar could be optimized for what it's
supposed to do, rather than doing double duty as a sway bar and a
suspension link. I am talking to a German bearing manufacturer
right now about a different rod end that would be nearly as good,
but at far lower cost. Let me know if you have any other questions.
Toby Peterson VIN 2248 (Winged1)
DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
www.delorean-parts.com
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxx> wrote:
> In Photos, under "Techie Stuff" you'll see someone has made links
for the lower control arms. Can someone tell me more about this? Do
many people have this mod? Is it a good idea? What does it do to the
handling of the car? Who did it?
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Message: 6
Date: Tue, 23 Dec 2003 09:08:52 -0500
From: "Dom Diaz" <dom_diaz@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Re: Prototype (and other early Deloreans)
I saw 580 for sale at an estate sale here in PA
>From: "fivetwofive" <CBL302@xxxxxxx>
>Reply-To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>Subject: [DML] Re: Prototype (and other early Deloreans)
>Date: Sun, 21 Dec 2003 04:27:39 -0000
>
>AHA !!
>I am starting to see a pattern here,a lot of those cars (pre vin #
>649)were "sold" away from the American Market.(less likely for a
>lawsuit)As most of those early cars that I came across were NOT in
>the American market.
>
>Claude
>00570
>
>
>
>
>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Andrew Prentis <aprentis@xxxx> wrote:
> >
> > > Also, note that some cars were "pulled" from the
> > > production line
> > > early on and at least some of these cars became
> > > factory RHD cars
> > > and were re-assigned later VIN's as they were
> > > actually sold.
> > This is very true.There is a very early car here in
> > Sydney,VIN 510.This car is a Wooler Hodec converted
> > car but kept its low VIN.Is an interesting car with a
> > real mix of features.It has the early dark wheels but
> > the later bonnet with no relief lines or gas flap.It
> > was cool to see such an early car in the flesh.
> >
> > Andrew
> > Sydney,Australia
> > VIN 2883
> >
> > __________________________________
> > Do you Yahoo!?
> > New Yahoo! Photos - easier uploading and sharing.
> > http://photos.yahoo.com/
>
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>To visit your group on the web, go to:
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>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
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>
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>
>
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Message: 7
Date: Tue, 23 Dec 2003 15:13:17 -0000
From: "hodakaguy" <hodakaguy@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: What engine oil should I use?
I use Valvoline Synpower 20-50W Full Synthetic. I've had great luck
with this oil. It meets the higher Euro specs and is the only other
oil approved for the BMW M series engines other than the BMW brand
itself(which is also made my Valvoline). Just my 2 Cents. Hodaka Guy
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Video Bob" <videobob@xxxx> wrote:
> I just had this long discussion with John Hervey at SpecialTauto
tonight....
> We were discussing the "best" oil filters, etc, (which may be
revealed in
> another post)
> but we both came to the conclusion that you should use what is
recommended
> in the manual
> which is 20/50.
[moderator snip]
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Message: 8
Date: Tue, 23 Dec 2003 15:24:10 -0000
From: "hodakaguy" <hodakaguy@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: For Sale: 81 DeLorean vin# 01063 Super Nice! Must See WA
For Sale: 81 DeLorean
Low Vin# 01063
Excellent Cond! Super Clean!!!!
All Records and Maint Reciepts Since New!
Proffessionly Serviced and maintained by the DeLorean Motor Center in
CA since New.
Original CA Car, Now located in the Dry Desert of Kennewick WA
Always Garraged since New!
Won't Find a nicer one!!!!!
32,000 Original Miles
WAY TO MUCH TO LIST
Look at the rest then come and look at this one.
Call or e-mail for more info
Hodaka Guy (509) 521-9334
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Message: 9
Date: Tue, 23 Dec 2003 20:00:29 -0000
From: "fivetwofive" <CBL302@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Prototype Delorean AGAIN!
Yes,they were sold before the auction ended,I had countless offers to
sell indivutal parts,and quite a few OFFERS WORLDWIDE(for the lot),
(as far as the Netherlands)(I was NOT into it to make a quick buck,i
just needed to make sure the cars got a good HOME,otherwise I would
have let the auction run,and see How high it would go)(and now they
DO HAVE THE BEST HOME)Orignally I took a Deposit on the person in the
Netherlands,But will be returning/returned their Deposit,as the time
and DISTANCE involved in the move,could NOT be worked out,in the TIME
I have left to remove the cars,so that the Cars/parts were sold to
someone on the east Coast(at this time I will not say)BUT he IS on
the DML,and is within driving/towing distance from my place here in
Connecticut,so there should be no problem with removal of
cars/parts,and I KNOW(and took his word that at least 3 of 4 cars
will be completed)And like me knows these cars,like the back of his
hand.(I just never had the time to finish)
Regards
Claude
00570
soon
vin#00000
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Enid/Jeremiah
<hispanicangeleyes@xxxx> wrote:
> I have heard rumor from someone who is going to look into going to
Conneticut...I'll say more when something actually happens. I hate
hearsay.
>
> DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683@xxxx> wrote:I was wondering if anyone
acquired the big Delorean parts and car
> auction on EBay, i seen the seller closed the auction early.
>
> Mark
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please
address:
> moderators@xxxx
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
> To visit your group on the web, go to:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
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>
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>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
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> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 10
Date: Tue, 23 Dec 2003 22:53:43 +0000 (GMT)
From: simon trotter <simonsays10002003@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: delorean spark plug leads
thanks steve il try them
simon
Steve Abbott <abbotts@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
The Bosch (original equipment) part number for the complete ignition
lead set for the Volvo version of the V6 is B6087. For the Renault
version the part no is B4044. The difference between the two would
most likely just be in the length of the coil lead, either of which
might not be suitable for the Delorean anyway. You might need to take
the original coil lead in to your supplier to match it up with one
from their stock items. If they don't supply Bosch parts, they should
be able to use the Bosch part number to cross-match it to the brand
(s) they carry.
BTW, the Bosch part no for the distributor cap is GB797, and for the
rotor it is GB747, if that's any help at all :)
Hoping that these part numbers are still current, as my catalogue is
a few years old I'm afraid.
Cheers
Steve Abbott
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "simonsays10002003"
wrote:
> hi i live in the uk and am having problems finding a company that
> sells ignition leads,i really want a part number and manufacturer
or
> manufacurers so that i can go to my local halfords [motor factures]
to
> get them. thanks simon
To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
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For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
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Message: 11
Date: Tue, 23 Dec 2003 23:04:26 -0000
From: "simonsays10002003" <simonsays10002003@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: delorean door seals
hi i need new delorean door seals{mine are rivited on along the
bottom with 8 rivits is this normal?. does anyone know what other car
uses the same rubber strip or any part number and make i can use to
get hold of them thanks simon
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Message: 12
Date: Tue, 23 Dec 2003 23:06:26 -0000
From: "simonsays10002003" <simonsays10002003@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: delorean door seals
sorry i forgot to mention im in the uk.i say this because part
numbers differ here to the us thanks simon
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Message: 13
Date: Wed, 24 Dec 2003 01:18:07 -0000
From: "spaceace3113" <spaceace3113@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Prototype Delorean AGAIN!
Sounds like Rob Grady to me....just a guess of course
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Message: 14
Date: Tue, 23 Dec 2003 17:30:22 -0800 (PST)
From: Louie Golden <louie@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: TV sighting
I was watching a program about the Woodward Dream Cruise on the Speed Channel this morning, and they showed a close-up of a DeLorean as being a participant. If the owner is on this list, you've got a very very nice car! :-)
Louie Golden
VIN 5252
NC Plates "88 MPH"
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Message: 15
Date: Wed, 24 Dec 2003 03:10:01 -0000
From: "Robert Moseley" <videobob@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: New, Untitled Delorean in Dallas - 126 miles - black / auto
Hey guys, I might have mentioned this before but here is an update.
Toyota of Irving (Dallas, Texas)
http://www.toyota-irving.com/
...they used to be the original Dallas Delorean dealers and they kept
thier last 83. It is a black auto with a little over 100 miles.
It has never been tagged or titled.
However, they are little proud of it.
They want $65,000 for it.
Just letting you know about it.
- VB
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Message: 16
Date: Wed, 24 Dec 2003 03:26:38 -0000
From: "TalksToGod" <5n-@xxxxxxx>
Subject: DeLorean Door Seals...
My door seals seem to keep wearing out at the corner-where the seal
runs from the top of the windsield and down the piller. This happened
now on both sides, as well as the rear corner from the roof down. The
seals seem to just split down the middle-I am wondering if this is a
door adjustment, or is this just something I will have to deal with
every time. My seals were new before this happens-what gives?-#5003
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 17
Date: Wed, 24 Dec 2003 05:01:01 -0000
From: tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: DeLorean Door Seals...
This sounds like you need to trim the fiberglass flange down a bit
in the areas where the seal is being split. Some cars have a "tall"
flange on the underbody, and this can lead to overcompression of the
seal. You can trim off up to about a quarter inch, reinstall the
seal, and see if this problem continues. Careful not to trim so
much that the seal has nothing to grip to. One way to be a little
more "scientific" about it is to remove the seal, apply some lumps
of modeling clay to the door surface that normally touches the seal,
and then close the door. Then, open it back up, and measure the
clay thickness. I think that you will find that it gets very thin
in the problem areas, and remains thicker elsewhere. Simply trim
the fiberglass to get a consistent gap. Remember to let everybody
on the List know what you find, so that we can learn from your
experience.
Toby Peterson VIN 2248
DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
www.delorean-parts.com
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "TalksToGod" <5n-@xxxx> wrote:
> My door seals seem to keep wearing out at the corner-where the seal
> runs from the top of the windsield and down the piller. This
happened now on both sides, as well as the rear corner from the roof
down. The seals seem to just split down the middle-I am wondering if
this is a door adjustment, or is this just something I will have to
deal with every time. My seals were new before this happens-what
gives?-#5003
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Message: 18
Date: Wed, 24 Dec 2003 00:35:59 -0500
From: "Bill Lane" <blane@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: delorean door seals
Simon,
Order them from one of the DeLorean vendors. That way you will get the
correct parts!
Bill Lane
#3635
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