Re: [DML] Re: hard starting when cold?

[Soma576@xxxx]

In a message dated 9/29/03 4:19:11 PM Central Daylight Time, 
brobertson@xxxx writes:

> First: do you have resistance on air sensor plate at key turn? Ran
> into fellow as SEDOC with leaking fuel distributor regulator. Didn't
> have enough pressure to crack injectors until pump had spun for a while.

Yes, there is plenty of resistance on sensor plate. 

> 
> You didn't mention cold start valve diagnosis. Is it pumping? Check
> for 12v in (white/red) and a good ground (blue/black) when coolant
> cold. If you have no ground then thermal time switch is bad or not
> grounding itself (or wiring is bad to it).
> 

Well here is what i have done to test it, not sure what can be extrapolated 
yet. 

1. Unplugged cold start valve and attempted to start car. Car starts exactly 
the same way when cold with or without the cold start valve plugged in. it 
is 50 deg ambient temp and take about 4-5 sec before the engine fires and 
starts. obviously the cold start system is not functioning properly. 
2. checked for clean contacts on thermotime switch and cold start valve.
3. put a meter to the blue connector that goes onto valve and cranked the 
car. when cranking, the meter takes about 1 second to climb to almost exactly 4 
volts, stays there for a few seconds, then tapers off. does the valve only 
need 4 volts to fire?
4. removed cold start valve and put in a cup. reconnected electricals and 
cranked car. absolutely no gas is coming from the valve.
5. reinstalled the plug and removed fuel line. loads of fuel pressure in 
there so i know it is getting gas.

Based on this information i assume either:
1. cold start valve may have voltage but isn't grounding. where is the 
ground and how do i test it with a meter?
2. cold start valve internal actuator or whatever is in there is permanantly 
stalled and won't move to allow gas thru when receiving power.
3. thermotime switch isn't putting out proper signal voltage to cold start 
valve. is 4 volts all it needs?

> 
> What is condition of ignition spark? How many volts are going into
> coil? Is your starting relay cutting out one of the ballast resistors? 
> Try running a 12v jumper to positive side of coil while cranking (this
> is temporary -- don't screw it to coil terminal).

I have an accell performance coil as well as a complete tune-up with Grady's 
parts about one year ago. in light of the above cold start information, i 
think the valve is the problem, not spark.

> 
> 
> Don't worry about accelerator pedal. Fuel delivery system has no pump
> attached (like carburetor). Opening throttle plates will only make
> starting harder.

Well i know the manual says to open throttle but from what other owners have 
said, if everything works correctly this isn't necessary. i am primarly 
concerned with optimum performance of my car. 

> 
> Congrats otherwise. Can take a while to tune PRV just right.
> 

yeah, it only took about three years to get it this far (as readers of this 
newsgroup can verify!!!). once i get this cold start problem fixed, i believe 
it will be about done!


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