List, with a listmember's help i was able to find the source of my problems. one of the wires on the back of the microswitch wasn't very tight and wasn't giving a constant power source. now that i cut the wires and recrimped them, the vacuum goes away when the engine gets hot like it should. now i no longer have advance at idle. base timing was also about 4 deg off, which i have corrected. now i am positive my advance system and microswitch works the way it should and my timing is perfect. however now that everything is set right, i have a couple more collateral problems: 1). when you give it some gas and let it come back down to idle, it idles at about 1000RPM.? that's too high.? it is smooth but won't go all the wayback down.? if i let it run at 1000 for about a minute it actually drops back down on its own sometimes.? what is causing this? i am 100% positive that the idle microswitch works and switches as it should.... 2).? i think the stop screw on the throttle hammer (the piece that trips the microswitch) -? is not set right anymore.? i unscrewed it to see if it would drop the idle a little (i messed with it last year too so i wondered if it was set right anymore) but it didn't help any.? actually i know it shouldn't since idle is electronically controlled but maybe it was WAY off... how do i set that stop screw (the lower one - not the one that hits the switch) against the brass stop piece so it is adjusted right? if it is down too far, the throttle plates are cracked open, so where is the right point to screw it in? either way, right now it still trips my microswitch. i just want the throttle plates open however much they should be at idle. all tests are being done with the engine at operating temp. i can hear my idle speed motor buzzing too. any tips are appreciated - please CC to my personal email so i can keep working over the weekend. Andy [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]