Re: [DML] more issues with ignition

["Henry" <henry@xxxx>]

I still can't get the car started. Here's the info I have so far.. please help if you can:

First, the ignition coil is "questionable". Out of the car/cold, measuringthe resistance between terminal 1 (-) and terminal 4 (the secondary winding) I get 9.5 k ohms. I get the same 9.5 k ohms resistance between terminal 4 and terminal 15 (+ primary coil winding). John Harvey measured a known good coil and got the exact same measurements. The "Delorean Technical Information Manual" from Rob Grady says that the primary winding should be 0.95-1.4 OHMS, and the secondary should be 5.5k-8k ohms. I don't know which iscorrect or if my coil is good or bad.

Second, according to the DTIM, I should have 6-8 volts on terminal #15 of the coil when the ignition switch is on the "run" position. I'm getting 4.6V.

Third, according to the DTIM, I should have 0.5-2 volts on terminal #1 of the coil when the ignition switch is on the "run" position. I'm getting 2.5V.

According to John Harvey, I should be getting 10-11 volts on the Blue/Yellow wire at the compensating resistor during cranking. I'm getting about 9.5 volts. On the other side, I'm getting about 7-8 volts.

The battery has about 12.6 volts.

When I pull the spark plug wire on the drivers side (cylinder #6) and crankthe engine, I get a small yellow/orange spark.

I've tried jump starting the car with another during these tests, and the Delorean still won't start. I get more than 13 volts when the cars are jumped. It cranks very strong when jumped and cranks pretty well when not jumped.

I've checked the inertia switch and connector, and it looks fine.

Interestingly, I'm NOT getting the frequency valve buzzing when the car is in the "run" mode but not started. I AM getting a moderate hum/buzz from the idle speed motor which I hadn't noticed before.

And as you all know, I've just replaced the pick-up coil and distributor cap.

Any suggestions would be most helpful. Thanks in advance.

-Hank