Re: DeLorean for sale

["content22207" <brobertson@xxxx>]

I think you need to get back to basics. Forget all the sensors and add
on crap for now. Once engine is running you can re-install if desired.

Control pressure regulator isn't optional, but the vacuum enrichment
ports are.

1) Ensure ONE MORE TIME that heads, valve covers, timing chain cover,
intake manifold, cold start tube (bottom), and the many mating
surfaces of upper air assembly are air tight. I know I sound like a
broken record, but if you're sucking air fuel metering won't work.
This may be a situation where some orange silicone couldn't hurt. Just
remember to do TWO torquings -- a gentle one to squish flat, then a
tight one after it's dried.

2) Plug EVERY vacuum port on engine. They aren't needed right now. Do
NOT plug the PCV breather port. Not only will engine NOT run without
it, but that's the best place to spray starting fluid (upper air
assembly has weird air flow. Stuff poured past air sensor plate will
puddle in it, not sucked into engine until higher RPM's).

3) Remove idle speed motor and cap BOTH air passages in cold start
tube and upper air assembly. For now you can crack the throttle plates
with set screw like a carburetor.

4) Don't worry about Lamda system. It will fail in a constant rich mode.

5) Install a brand new high voltage coil. Best $30 you'll ever spend.
While you're trying to start engine run a temporary wire from jump
start post to positive terminal on coil. Don't worry about hurting
ignition module -- you're only shooting full 12 volts during starting
cycle. Once engine runs you can trouble shoot ballast resistors and
starting relay.

6) Pull an injector and place in coke bottle. Don't forget to plug
empty port in head (MAJOR vacuum leak). I made a plug from old
injector seal and a bolt. Jump fuel pump relay (engine won't flood as
long as air sensor plate isn't depressed). Watch for spray pattern as
starter motor turns engine. 

7) Use a timing light as starter motor turns engine to verify timing.
20 degrees is going the wrong way. I'd time closer to TDC.

8) Put gas cap back on. You're not jetisoning car just yet.

9) Start the engine (famous last words?)

There are only so many places your problem can be. Visually verify
fuel supply. Use timing light on each wire (as close to plug as
possible) to verify spark. Pull plugs and feel for vacuum in the
cylinders. Make sure distributor isn't 180 degrees off (stock DMC
helpfully gives you TWO timing marks on crank pulley opposite one
another). Even if your engine has vacuum leak bad enough to interfere
with air sensor plate, it should run on starting fluid alone for a few
seconds. 

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxx> wrote:
> Needs minor restoration work. Simply unscrew gas cap, tow vehicle 
> away, drive new DeLorean under gas cap. Screw on gas cap. Restoration 
> complete.
> 
> Ok, so I'm not -quite- ready to quit yet. I am starting to feel 
> cheated though.
> 
> Let's review:
> 
> 1. Car did not run because of fuel system & electrical problems.
> 
> 2. Fixed electrical problems, and most of fuel problems. Needed new 
> fuel distributor. Car ran, though poorly. Very rich.
> 
> 3. Water pump leaked, engine overheated blowing head gaskets. (Yes, 
> I'm an idiot) At this point, the car still -ran-.
> 
> 4. Reconditioned engine. New head gaskets and seals all the way 
> around. New O2 sensor, thermotime thingy, vacuum switch, (the stuff 
> in the coolant "Y" pipe) blah blah blah.
> 
> 5. I've re done the timing 20 times now. Fuel, air, spark, starting 
> fluid. Now car does not run.
> 
> I've done this before. I don't know why I can't now.