I -gently- used a pair or long screw drivers to walk it off. It really was only hand tight. --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "content22207" <brobertson@xxxx> wrote: > I wasn't worried about crank nut -- just wondered what you used to > remove pulley after nut off. > > Like most engines, PRV pistons do indeed hit twice in each combustion > cycle. Is about only thing it has in common... > > When I said pulley has two timing marks, was talking only about > reindexing TDC. Of course distributor can only fire near top (10 > degrees -- sorry, couldn't resist) of compression stroke. Was under > impression you watched valves before marking rotor location. That's > why I wondered if valve covers were still off engine. > > Bill Robertson > #5939 > > >--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxx> wrote: > > Bill, > > > > You aint been paying attention. :) I bought $350.00 worth of air > > compressor, tank and tools. That's how I got the crank pulley off. > > > > Folks are also saying I could be 180 degrees off because #1 piston is > > TDC 2X for every one revolution of the distributor. > > > > --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "content22207" <brobertson@xxxx> > > wrote: > > > Pigeon Forge is a year away... > > > > > > One tooth makes all the difference in the world. Translates into a > > LOT > > > of rotor travel (how many teeth are on the worm gear? Divide 360 by > > > that and you'll see what you're up against). Despite my best > > efforts, > > > got mine one off (removed to better access heater core take off). > > Seem > > > to remember something interfering with far swing in direction I > > needed > > > to go. Pulled upper air assembly off AGAIN (by that time was getting > > > real good) and reinstalled one tooth over. Success. > > > > > > You can diagnose with timing light as you rotate engine with starter > > > motor only. Slow, but it does work. Either jump the solenoid, or > > con a > > > willing family member into turning the key. > > > > > > You did re-index TDC cylinder #1... (stock PRV has two marks on > > crank > > > pully so it doesn't matter which stroke you were on). > > > > > > BTW: How did you finally remove crank pully? I've got to replace > > seal > > > in timing case cover so mine's coming off too. > > > > > > Bill Robertson > > > #5939 > > > > > > >--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxx> wrote: > > > > Ok kids, here's what's happening: > > > > > > > > I bought a big honkin' Optima battery. I discovered my grounds > > and > > > > battery connections were dirty so I cleaned them up. That got the > > > > starter to engage. Hooked up the alternator belt and the little > > wire > > > > for the "discharge" light on the dash. Oil, coolant, etc. > > > > > > > > By now, it was getting dark, so I didn't fool with it for long. > > > > > > > > The engine squeaks. It's -bone dry-. I did my best to get the > > timing > > > > as close as I could, but the car didn't start. It tried once or > > > > twice. I had a helper crank the engine, and I felt it puff a > > feeble > > > > sort of back fire a couple of times. > > > > > > > > I think it's the timing. I feel very confident that I set the > > chains, > > > > pistons, and valves correctly. I rotated the engine by hand, and > > > > nothing was interfering. The distributor though... > > > > > > > > Here's what I did: Set piston 1 at TDC. Then I set the rotor in > > the > > > > distributor in line with electrode #1 in distro cap. I then > > installed > > > > the distributor and put the cap on, making sure they were still > > in > > > > line. > > > > > > > > Hm...TDC? It's supposed to be 13 degrees -before- TDC, right? Am > > I an > > > > entire gear tooth off, or can I adjust 13 degrees with the swing > > in > > > > the distributor? > > > > > > > > The really good news? The engine isn't pukeing any fluids. > > > > > > > > Come on guys, I'm close. Help me out, I want to go to Pigeon > > Forge! > > > > > > > > Rich > > > > #5335