Moment of Truth (continued)

["content22207" <brobertson@xxxx>]

I wasn't worried about crank nut -- just wondered what you used to
remove pulley after nut off.

Like most engines, PRV pistons do indeed hit twice in each combustion
cycle. Is about only thing it has in common...

When I said pulley has two timing marks, was talking only about
reindexing TDC. Of course distributor can only fire near top (10
degrees -- sorry, couldn't resist) of compression stroke. Was under
impression you watched valves before marking rotor location. That's
why I wondered if valve covers were still off engine.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxx> wrote:
> Bill,
> 
> You aint been paying attention. :) I bought $350.00 worth of air 
> compressor, tank and tools. That's how I got the crank pulley off.
> 
> Folks are also saying I could be 180 degrees off because #1 piston is 
> TDC 2X for every one revolution of the distributor.
> 
> --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "content22207" <brobertson@xxxx> 
> wrote:
> > Pigeon Forge is a year away...
> > 
> > One tooth makes all the difference in the world. Translates into a 
> LOT
> > of rotor travel (how many teeth are on the worm gear? Divide 360 by
> > that and you'll see what you're up against). Despite my best 
> efforts,
> > got mine one off (removed to better access heater core take off). 
> Seem
> > to remember something interfering with far swing in direction I 
> needed
> > to go. Pulled upper air assembly off AGAIN (by that time was getting
> > real good) and reinstalled one tooth over. Success.
> > 
> > You can diagnose with timing light as you rotate engine with starter
> > motor only. Slow, but it does work. Either jump the solenoid, or 
> con a
> > willing family member into turning the key.
> > 
> > You did re-index TDC cylinder #1... (stock PRV has two marks on 
> crank
> > pully so it doesn't matter which stroke you were on).
> > 
> > BTW: How did you finally remove crank pully? I've got to replace 
> seal
> > in timing case cover so mine's coming off too.
> > 
> > Bill Robertson
> > #5939
> > 
> > >--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxx> wrote:
> > > Ok kids, here's what's happening:
> > > 
> > > I bought a big honkin' Optima battery. I discovered my grounds 
> and 
> > > battery connections were dirty so I cleaned them up. That got the 
> > > starter to engage. Hooked up the alternator belt and the little 
> wire 
> > > for the "discharge" light on the dash. Oil, coolant, etc.
> > > 
> > > By now, it was getting dark, so I didn't fool with it for long.
> > > 
> > > The engine squeaks. It's -bone dry-. I did my best to get the 
> timing 
> > > as close as I could, but the car didn't start. It tried once or 
> > > twice. I had a helper crank the engine, and I felt it puff a 
> feeble 
> > > sort of back fire a couple of times.
> > > 
> > > I think it's the timing. I feel very confident that I set the 
> chains, 
> > > pistons, and valves correctly. I rotated the engine by hand, and 
> > > nothing was interfering. The distributor though...
> > > 
> > > Here's what I did: Set piston 1 at TDC. Then I set the rotor in 
> the 
> > > distributor in line with electrode #1 in distro cap. I then 
> installed 
> > > the distributor and put the cap on, making sure they were still 
> in 
> > > line.
> > > 
> > > Hm...TDC? It's supposed to be 13 degrees -before- TDC, right? Am 
> I an 
> > > entire gear tooth off, or can I adjust 13 degrees with the swing 
> in 
> > > the distributor?
> > > 
> > > The really good news? The engine isn't pukeing any fluids. 
> > > 
> > > Come on guys, I'm close. Help me out, I want to go to Pigeon 
> Forge!
> > > 
> > > Rich
> > > #5335