Thought about your situation some more on way to work: Where are the valve covers? Unlike old domestic block, don't think PRV will run without them in place (double check me on that Martin G). A mere hair line gap on one of mine created unbearable vacuum leak. Would be nice to watch valve train in action but don't think that's an option. In fact, ensure all gaskets etc tight. PRV is a mean lean air sucking machine. You'll find vacuum leaks in the weirdest places. If I'm reading tech manual correctly (same page Brother Maynard quoted in original problem), even a loose oil pan will let air into engine. Weird. If vacuum leak is bad enough, engine won't run. During these initial phases you may want to bypass idle speed motor and either crack throttle plates old fashioned way or use manual idle circuit. No sense complicating issue with yet one more potential problem. Fuel pump does not engage until engine reaches some RPM's beyond range of starter motor (classic "hot start" problem). Jump it on at the relay to ensure fuel supply is not an issue. If air sensor plate/fuel distributor piston OK won't flood engine (let intake air alone move plate). Bill Robertson #5939 >--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxx> wrote: > Ok kids, here's what's happening: > > I bought . . > Hm...TDC? It's supposed to be 13 degrees -before- TDC, right? Am I an > entire gear tooth off, or can I adjust 13 degrees with the swing in > the distributor?