Dave, have you ever had the calipers reworked and the pistons were taken out ? The cylinder showing to the outer side of the calipers must be bleeded carefully. If there's some air inside it won't get out by regular bleeding ! I suggest to take out only the outer brake pad, pump the piston out, push back in, put the brake pad back in and bleed again. Now there should be more brake fluid in the cylinder and the air will be pushed to the inner cylinder which now can be bleeded. Another suggestion is to use a better brand brake pads. 10$ items should be thrown away... Hope this helps a bit Elvis > Hi List, > Before work today I had a machine shop press the new bearings into > the hub for me as I couldnt chance screwing them up. I had the pads, spring > pins, anti-squeel shims, calipers and rotors on in about an hour. > Everything went together well. My squeeky brakes are gone and no more steering wheel > vibration when slowing down. Now on to my next problem. > Ever since I have owned this car the brakes have have taken > excessive foot presure to slow the car down. I have driven in other D's and the > brakes felt much easier than they do in my car. I thought that the brake booster > may not be working so I disconnected the vacuum hose(plugged it) from it > but the brakes were a lot worse. So I know the booster is working, but maybe > not at 100%. Is there anything else I can check before replacing the booster? I > have already installed a new master cylinder, front brake everything, and > rear pads. Any help would be appreciated. > > Thanks > > Dave > 6286-MI -- +++ GMX - Mail, Messaging & more http://www.gmx.net +++ Bitte lächeln! Fotogalerie online mit GMX ohne eigene Homepage!