There are many other things to check before you go after the O2 sensor. There can be NO vacuum leaks. If it has been a long time do a COMPLETE tune-up with CORRECT parts. If it's been 30,000 miles since the last time (or more!) check the valve adjustments. Have the fuel injectors cleaned and tested. Make sure the 3 brass screws are closed and the idle motor and micro are working. If the frequency valve is buzzing then the O2 sensor is probably good enough for idling. For a complete description of the Lambda circuit and diagnostic procedures refer to the Workshop Manual. To adjust the mixture with a DWELL meter it has to be an old analog (needle) type. The newer digital display type meters won't be able to read the fluctuating voltage. Don't try to fix the idle by twiddling the mixture screw. Just make sure there is a plug in the housing over it and it isn't leaking. A properly set-up and operating PRV won't run right without the lambda system, it adds a little fuel to make the air-fuel ratio correct. With a dead O2 sensor the Lambda will revert (fallback) to a fixed value. The big symptom would be a loss of power and terrible acceleration. It is even worse if the Lambda system is dead completely. David Teitelbaum vin 10757 --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Adam" <acprice1@xxxx> wrote: > This weekend I tried to perform the lambda sensor removal/bypass as > explained in the DMCnews tech section in the article by Knut. Well I > hooked up the voltmeter, but the numbers constantly fluctuate and > they never stabilize enough to make any accurate adjustments. My car > has idled crazy ever since I've owned it. Could this be a bad sensor? > > Also, what exactly is the circuit operation with the lambda sensor > unhooked? The computer will recieve no signal, so what will the > frequency valve do, and with the lambda gone, is the freq valve > necessary? > > thanks, > Adam 16683