Re: [DML] Re: Steering Wheel

["Donald Ekhoff" <ekhoff@xxxx>]

I recently removed my wheel the had not been removed since new. Needless to
say it too was rather stuck. I was however able to unstick it by impact
only. With the assistance of a helper I pulled outward on the wheel while
impacting the large nut (loosened a couple turns) with a cylindrical block
of wood and a medium sized mallet. The reason for pulling out on the wheel
was to make sure that any impact forces were not transferred down the shaft
where they might do damage. Smaller sharp impacts are better than large
blunt ones.

If you have an effective puller, I would suggest tightening it up and then
rocking the wheel by grabbing the rim. This rocking motion might get it to
break free while minimizing the load on the puller threads.

Don Ekhoff

----- Original Message -----
From: <jtrealty@xxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Monday, February 03, 2003 7:19 AM
Subject: [DML] Re: Steering Wheel


> I only mentioned the nut because sometimes I have done dumb things so
> I try to pass on my experience so everyone can benefit from it. Even
> experienced mechanics do stupid things. Everyone needs to realize that
> ANYONE can make a mistake or overlook the obvious.
> Getting back to business, don't drill out and tap to M8. Use a thread
> insert and stay with either M6 or 1/4-20. (For these screws going into
> the metal of the wheel itself a course thread is stronger so don't tap
> to a fine thread.) The reason is if you were to strip out the M8 now
> what are you going to do? A thread insert is much stronger then the
> metal of the wheel and should be alright at M6. It is very important
> that the screws going into the wheel are long enough and are FULLY
> threaded into the wheel so they won't pull out. Again the "pulling"
> screw in the puller should be a fine thread to get the most power and
> control in removing the wheel. An excellant tip also is to mark the
> position of the wheel on the shaft so you can put it back on and it
> points straight ahead when you are done. Swipe some old red nail
> polish from your significant other, it works great, just a tiny dab on
> the wheel and the shaft. You might have to answer some odd questions
> if someone sees it in your toolbox though!!!! There is no torque spec
> for the steering wheel nut so get it tight but not overly tight, the
> wheel is a taper fit so it doesn't really need to be "gorrilla'd" on
> tight. Heat isn't going to help you here, you can't get it hot enough
> to make a difference without damaging everything nearby. Penetrating
> lubricant won't help either because of the taper fit. If you can't
> loosen it up the next step is to drill holes in a circular pattern
> around the shaft and then beat the wheel off destroying the steering
> wheel so get it off with the puller.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
>
>
>
> --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita@xxxx>
> wrote:
> > What ? I have to loosen the big nut first ?
> > Damn that's why it didn't move at all...
> >
> > No, really, the thread of the M6 wasn't strong enough and I pulled
> the whole
> > thread out !
> > I will try to use M8 bolts and heat it up with a heat gun the next
> time.
> > Last time I also used a lead hammer which I normally use to open the
> large
> > nuts of
> > my other cars spoke wheels.
> >
> > Thanks for the many replies
> >
> > Elvis
> >
> > P.S: Hey Mike, how's weather down there under your car ?
> >
> >
> > Elvis,
> > Since you have the M6 screws, use them in conjunction with a
> > steering wheel puller and you will be fine. I used 1/4 inch screws
> and
> > re-threaded them. My advice is to have them be at least 5 inches
> (12.5 cm)
> > long, otherwise the puller will not get close enough to lock in to
> the
> > wheel.
> >
> > Good luck,
> > Matthew
> > VIN #'s 10365 and 16816
>
>
>
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