I only mentioned the nut because sometimes I have done dumb things so I try to pass on my experience so everyone can benefit from it. Even experienced mechanics do stupid things. Everyone needs to realize that ANYONE can make a mistake or overlook the obvious. Getting back to business, don't drill out and tap to M8. Use a thread insert and stay with either M6 or 1/4-20. (For these screws going into the metal of the wheel itself a course thread is stronger so don't tap to a fine thread.) The reason is if you were to strip out the M8 now what are you going to do? A thread insert is much stronger then the metal of the wheel and should be alright at M6. It is very important that the screws going into the wheel are long enough and are FULLY threaded into the wheel so they won't pull out. Again the "pulling" screw in the puller should be a fine thread to get the most power and control in removing the wheel. An excellant tip also is to mark the position of the wheel on the shaft so you can put it back on and it points straight ahead when you are done. Swipe some old red nail polish from your significant other, it works great, just a tiny dab on the wheel and the shaft. You might have to answer some odd questions if someone sees it in your toolbox though!!!! There is no torque spec for the steering wheel nut so get it tight but not overly tight, the wheel is a taper fit so it doesn't really need to be "gorrilla'd" on tight. Heat isn't going to help you here, you can't get it hot enough to make a difference without damaging everything nearby. Penetrating lubricant won't help either because of the taper fit. If you can't loosen it up the next step is to drill holes in a circular pattern around the shaft and then beat the wheel off destroying the steering wheel so get it off with the puller. David Teitelbaum vin 10757 --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita@xxxx> wrote: > What ? I have to loosen the big nut first ? > Damn that's why it didn't move at all... > > No, really, the thread of the M6 wasn't strong enough and I pulled the whole > thread out ! > I will try to use M8 bolts and heat it up with a heat gun the next time. > Last time I also used a lead hammer which I normally use to open the large > nuts of > my other cars spoke wheels. > > Thanks for the many replies > > Elvis > > P.S: Hey Mike, how's weather down there under your car ? > > > Elvis, > Since you have the M6 screws, use them in conjunction with a > steering wheel puller and you will be fine. I used 1/4 inch screws and > re-threaded them. My advice is to have them be at least 5 inches (12.5 cm) > long, otherwise the puller will not get close enough to lock in to the > wheel. > > Good luck, > Matthew > VIN #'s 10365 and 16816