I did this job this past summer.. very straight-forward. Go to Autozone and get Fernco part number M52329 - it's the same master cylinder, only cheaper (that is, if you choose not to get one from the D vendors). It will come with two little hoses and adapters for bench bleeding the cylinder before installation. Do NOT skip this step. Good instructions are included with the Fernco part. There is also a core-charge, so be sure to return your old cylinder. You will need to transfer the old reservoir to the new cylinder. It's easy - two cotter pins/spring clips - don't lose them!. Be sure to mount it in the same direction as the original. If your reservoir was as bad as mine, you may need to wash it out using lots of new brake fluid (do not use water!). There was quite a bit of grime/tar inside my reservoir. (BTW, the oldbrake fluid that came out of my car looked like coffee!). And a word of advice - you may want to wear oil-resistant rubber gloves for the entire repair - my hands were brake-fluid soaked for about a week or two after doing this, and it's not a nice feeling at all. Once you have the new cylinder bench bleed and installed, get one of these:http://www.aep.bigstep.com/eezi.htm It's a $35 one-man pressure-bleeder kit that works really well and is very easy to use. It hooks upto a spare tire for pressure. Just don't let the brake fluid bottle run dry, or else you'll have to start all over again. Youhave to remove the rear wheels to bleed the rear brakes, but you don't need to remove the front wheels. At the same time as the master cylinder repair, I also replaced my old, stretched rubber brake lines with the stainless steel ones available from several D sources. This is a tougher job, but well worth it. (It's not complicated, just time and strength consuming getting the old lines out - they could be frozen). Be sure to have the proper tools before starting this job. -Hank