Oh dear -- is it time to post your physical address so someone can pay you a visit? Car will not run without idle speed motor *OR* throttle bypass screws built into upper air assembly *OR* cracking the throttle plates. The choice is yours. I've experimented with all three and found idle speed motor preferable (although I did relocate the motor away from spark plug 4). If/when you get your idle speed motor working, make sure you've got a decent connection on the hose that feeds the motor from upper air assembly. Is tricky. My previous owner had kinked so badly that a combination of motor and bypass screws was necessary. One advantage of relocating the motor is I now thread about 18 inches of 3/4" hose to the barb under the upper air assembly -- much easier than that little formed elbow. For now, you may just want to isolate the idle speed motor and set with the bypass screws. Remember to cap off *BOTH* the barb under the upper air assembly and the cold start tube. Guarantee car won't run otherwise (world's largest vacuum leak). Screw closest to air sensor plate lets air into bypass circuit. Middle screw is driver side intake. Farthest screw is passenger side intake. Of course you want driver's and passenger's set the same (they're called "balancing" screws). Advantage of idle speed motor is it can automatically adjust for all sorts of engine loads. If you set manually you may need to set high for automatic transmission, A/C compressor, etc. I'll bet contacts on top of the idle speed motor would accept the tiny sized quick connects, if you wanted to jetison your damaged plug. John Hervey claims to stock all sorts of "European" plugs. Ask Darryl Tinnerstet what he's got (www.delorean-parts.com). Re: jumping relays -- don't ask me where my head was last night (or was it Wednesday, can't remember). #106 is the Lambda relay. #109 is the fuel pump relay. I remembered looking at that when I was trying to decipher my replacement block (I have no Lambda system) and just ran with it. Sorry. Yellow/Red is the trigger wire FROM the fuel pump relay, not a line to it. Jumping it at the Lambda relay wouldn't accomplish a thing. Fuel pump relay is located under the metal plate behind relay banks (last one, losest to engine). Jump Brown to White/Purple and you'll be in business. I kind of lost interest in the fuel pump relay after I got my new accumulator so I'm a bit rusty (never even located in car until tonight. When tinkering last summer I just jumped under the hood). Sorry. Nice to know I'm the only one reading my own posts. Oh, relay sockets accept standard large size quick connects (male). Do yourself a favor and use large gauge wire. I keep a couple of jumpers in the car at all times (got me home when I melted my headlight dash switch). "Underside" of fuel pump relay socket is actually accessible (relay is sideways) so you could just use a piece of wire from "below." Try it and you'll hear the pump spin -- a very different sound from the idle speed motor, which I think people sometimes confuse when tinkering in the engine compartment. Re: missing gaskets on your U pipes -- you can cut replacements from cardboard (like a cereal box). Or you could apply a THIN layer of silicone to the mating surfaces (rather than gumming up from outside). You didn't loose the O rings where pipes meet throttle plates did you? Post may be too long for Dave already, so I'll shut up & go to bed. Bill Robertson #5939 (purring like a contented kitten) >--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Payne" <bpayne@xxxx> wrote: > Well, I announced yesterday that after doing a tune up twice (or at least > dismantling it twice) I was able to get the car running again. Even though > I had a small vacuum leak, I was proud of being able to finally get it > running again. I took it to work today, and it ran fine except for it had > hardly any power below 3,000 rpms, but still ran relatively smooth. When I > took it to lunch, the idle was extremely low, and I found the wires on the > connector at the idle speed motor were damaged. ...