AW: [DML] Re: Problem with Lockzilla

["Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita@xxxx>]

Hi Martin,

what kind of protection diodes are you talking about ? to cut the spikes of
the selenoides in the door or for the normaly used diodes parallel to the
relay ? (last one not really necessarry because current will go down to zero
itself)
I think the only correct way to solve the problem of sticking relays is to
built a completely
new module without mechanical switches. But so far my one lasted 4 months
since modification (used almost every day about 10 times with a remote
control) and before this it lasted at least 15 years befor it was
disconnected after the selenoids burned.

By the way, this fan fail module - can you tell me what is the problem with
that one ? Why would it fail ? Winter is near and may be I'll find some time
to replace this thing, too.

Elvis & 6548



Elvis,

I have done some extensive research on these modules which is all documented
in the DMC
news tech article. I don't think you've had to troubleshoot a malfunctioning
unit before,
hence why you don't see any reason to add protection diodes, replace the
capacitors or
transistors.

You're right though (as is Knut), I didn't spend as long as I should reading
the diagram
(which should be oh-so-familiar by now!) before posting last.

I am very well aware that switching a relay off slowly is very bad - and
have said this
on several occasions before. It causes arcing and pitting of the contact
surfaces.
However, if you use sealed relays which contain an inert gas, you bypass
this problem.
The OEM module is a crap design, but by replacing and adding various
components, I'm
happy mine's robust enough to trust with a remote central locking system
which I've
fitted and has been working for 8 months now.

Martin
#1458 & #4426