Chris, I took the heater valve off my car last year and replaced it with just a 3" heater tube from the bottom of the air intake to the rear pontoon. Picture on the web site. Your right there won't be much to any HP gain but it's quicker response. Now that it's getting cooler, it will be better. Coupled that to Casey's air box and I have added more volume to the breather. My next step is to find a deal on K & N filters. Experiment, with this, while everything is hooked up like factory, go to the back of the engine and when you race up the engine, watch the restriction suck down the cover. Not enough air. When it won't suck down I think I will have reached the best way. Intrusted in what ever you do. John Hervey www.specialTauto.com << In the ongoing pursuit to get better performance I've been measuring the air inlet volume vs engine requirements at specified RPMs in an effort to squeeze even an infinitesimal amount of extra horsepower out of my stock engine. In doing so I'm asking about the Air Inlet Valve and it's air flow characteristics. It doesn't take a math equation to see that it's correctional flow is not equal to the rest of the inlet hose system. It's a restriction even in a full open state. Has anyone addressed this part before and is there anything we can do to increase it's flow outside of replacing it? Is there a larger replacement somewhere? What do you do with this part on the Stage II engines? Part two: How is this thing calibrated? I notice there is a functioning adjustment lock nut at the base of the sensor. >>