Re: [DML] Recommendation: Torsion bar adjustment

["jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxx>]

In some cases the anchor bracket is very tight on the splines. It can 
be carefully and slowly worked off. After removal try for fit on the 
other torsion bar. If it fits nicely then file the splines on the 
tight torsion bar. If it doesn't fit file the splines on the bracket. 
Either way the bracket should slide on easily. Also inspect the head 
of the torsion bar inside the allen head. Sometimes the bar can split 
causing the head to expand during adjustment making removal of the 
anchor bracket very difficult. You can strike the torsion bar on the 
ends if required to work the bracket off. Use a plastic or rubber 
hammer or block of wood. This is where a mechanic can really earn his 
pay! Sometimes what seems like a really easy little job turns into a 
nightmare! Another thing that can go really wrong is when one of the 
bolts holding the anchor bracket is stripped. Without the proper tools 
and an assistant you can really get in deep on this one!
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews@xxxx, Bastiaan Olij <mux@xxxx> wrote:
> At Monday, 12 August 2002, you wrote:
> 
> Hi Bill,
> 
> I have to second your opinion here. My Delorean had been sitting 
> on my driveway since the start of the year because of financial 
reasons.
> Last week I took her out for a drive from one end of the Netherlands 
> to the other (something in the order of 300 miles) and I've been 
> driving her the rest of the week to work and back. 
> 
> She has never ran this good, she really gets grateful if you push 
> her to her limits ones in a while. 
> 
> As for the torsionbars, I can definately underline how important 
> it is to do this in proper surroundings and with propper tools, but 
> even then it can go wrong. For some reason the plate holding my 
passenger 
> door torsion bar is fixed solid to it. I'm thinking it may be glued 
> to the torsion bar for some reason. No getting it loose whatsoever.
> Your worse nightmare can then come true as the tool we were using 
> gave out under the intense stress and suddenly I had a nice hole 
> in my roof:-( (mental note, remove roof plate next time).
> 
> Got it all fixed very nicely though, mechanic is a star when it 
comes 
> to that. But the plate is still as fixed as can be and I have no 
> way to lower the tension on this torsion bar which is much to high:
> -( 
> 
> Greetz,
> 
> Bas Olij
> 
> >Am fresh back from day trip to get torsion bars adjusted (and a nap 
to
> >compensate for 4 hours sleep -- hey Louie, can you spell "road 
trip").
> >
> >IMHO, this is not an optional procedure. Put it on your short list 
w/
> >cooling system modifications etc. Door struts are wonderful, and 
they
> >serve a purpose, but they are not a substitute for *proper* torsion
> >bar adjustment.
> >
> >Key word here is "proper": this is not a procedure for the novice.
> >Definitely is not to be performed solo. Risk of damage to car or 
self
> >is great -- take the vehicle to a tech clinic or guru.
> >
> >FWIW: 10 hour freeway burn did wonders for my Volvoized PRV (as did
> >adjusting back towards original throttle bypass settings -- some of 
us
> >don't have the luxury of a Lambda unit and all the things it's
> >apparently supposed to control). Don't hide your D or let it sit 
idle
> >in a garage or barn (or drive it as if it were made of porcelain).
> >Lot's of opinions about lots of aspects of the car, but I think
> >everyone can agree that it needs lots of room to run.
> >
> >Bill Robertson
> >#5939
> >
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> 
> 
> 
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