Do you still have the original fanfail plugged in or do you have a Fanzilla? If you have the original fanfail then you need to get rid of it and either install the Fanzilla or the Fan Fail fix wires. Your overheating problem can be caused by air trapped in the system and installing DMCJoes bleeder kit is a very good idea. Another cause can be that the Antifreeze has either broken down and is not good anymore or there was more Antifreeze to water mixed in the system. The mixture should be a 50/50 mix. Most people top off their system with Antifreeze without considering diluting it with water first (again 50/50 mix) which causes the system to have more antifreeze then water. Steve --- In dmcnews@xxxx, BondAtomic@xxxx wrote: > To make a long story short, I was driving in the city when the DMC heats up. > I park, and the coolant comes out the overflow. I wait, clean it up a bit, > and fill it with water. I then drive home (going a good speed to keep the car > cool.) and it was in operable temperatures. > My question? Well, the "fan fail" light is either on/off. First- the fan fail > light-that means one of the two fans isn't working, right? Or does it mean > they both aren't working? OR, does it mean one isn't working, so the other > one shuts off? > Then, if this "fan fail" light is on, is this "fanzilla" system a failsafe > device to prevent any overheating problems? I read in the tech section from > DMCJoe that the cooling system is almost equivelent of having "two > radiators." Then he goes on to describe air bleeding and such. So, is > Fanzilla the way to go? If both fans are operating and slower speeds, will > the heat stay down? > > By the by, just wanted to thank Walt for the major help in my troubles with > the passenger door, especially with those two "evil bolts of death." > > Thank you all very much. > John > 4275 > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]