Before you go changing everything I would first load test the battery and check and clean all of the "big" connections. I have seen several batteries that act like they have a loose connection inside, sometimes they work fine and sometimes they act like they are dead. Only change the fuel accumulater if you have a hard hot start problem. The fuel filter won't cause this but if it hasn't been changed in a long time there certainly is no harm in changing it. If you have a very early car (which your vin suggests) there is a wiring mod that should be done (see the archives). Also check the inertia switch, if it is on the lambda counter move it and make sure it has a white spot on it (it might be the old one that was recalled if it doesn't have the white spot). The old inertia switch would kill the fuel pump. David Teitelbaum vin 10757 --- In dmcnews@xxxx, "argent486" <argentum@xxxx> wrote: > Hello all, > > Working on my car this past month has been fun but now I'm starting > to have an itch to get this thing on the road. It seems to decide > whether it wants to run one day and sleep the next. On some occasions > including today it starts fine, runs for a minute then dies. Getting > it started after that is about impossible. I already have a fuel > filter and accumulator to change this weekend. My concern is a click > click click (about a second apart) from the relay compartment when it > does not start. On first crank I can also hear the fuel pump run, but > after that I don't hear it again. I'm sure my accumulator is going > out, but is the relay clicking normal? Could one of them be shutting > off my fuel pump as well??? > > Also up there with stupid things to do... I was replacing my > passenger door window motor last night. Got it out ok but the window > was pulled from the tracks and now sits in the bottom of the door. > Any procedure to start it back up from the bottom? > > Safe travel to all for the Memphis show! Wish I could come along but > have to work. > > Matt Metzinger > VIN #961 - KS TAG "TIMELES"