If you did not follow the proper procedures in removing the seals you may have upset the bearing preload. The rumbling you hear may be because the bearings are now too tight. Refer to F:04:01-02 if manual and G:06:04-05 for automatic. To set the preload correctly will now require removal of the final drive. If automatic check the fluid level of the final drive and if manual check the level of the trans. It is bad practice to use a torque wrench outside it's range, you may permanantly damage it. To measure torque above a torque wrench's range you need a torque multiplier which is a lever calibrated to multipy the torque from the torque wrench or a bigger torque wrench. If you are having problems with the master cylinder don't sc-ew around, make sure you brakes are working CORRECTLY!!! Always use Castrol GTLMA Dot 4 and if it hasn't been done lately flush the system out and you will have more to do then just a master cylinder. If a 5-speed do the clutch too. David Teitelbaum vin 10757 --- In dmcnews@xxxx, "john572905" <jrc2905@xxxx> wrote: > I have finally put my D back together. There is something not right, > I can feel it acting rough and some noise from the rear axle when I > drive it. I took the entire rear suspension off the car and cleaned > and regreased all componants, replaced the transmission seals and > sandblasted and rust proofed all the parts including frame, plus all > rebuild on the brakes, > My questions is; > 1. The rear drive axles, is there a correct way to install them. the > manual talks about a inside and outside axle connection, how do u > tell this. > 2.the manual calls for 270 pounds of torque on the axle nut, my > torque wrench only goes to 160. I torqued it to that and then some, > could I have over tightened the axle bolt? I did take the axle > bearings out and regreased them. > 3. what car is the brake master cylinder from. I need one small part > and do not want to by the whole master cylinder right now. > Any help is appreciated, I just want to drive. > John Cabral