> Removing the front mounts for the roll bar will allow the bar to drop away > from the bottom of the fan assembly allowing easy access and removal of the > fan and radiator assembly. I am disappointed to learn that I have to remove the radiator to get one of the fan motors out. At least I'm finding this out BEFORE I start the project. Today I squirted some white lithium grease into the hole at the bottom front of the motor. Before it "chirped" every time I spun it by hand. When I was done, it chirped about every 10th spin. I since took a 60 mile trip today and I think I only heard it squeak once, but I'm not sure. Before I oiled it, it would have a squealing attack about once every 20 miles. Can anyone say how these motors come apart? It looks like they should pull apart if you remove the two nuts on the back, but I check the archives and someone said that this didn't work. Since John Hervey is selling rebuilt ones on his website, I figure that it is possible. Maybe I'll just let him do it; although, that wouldn't be as much fun as doing it myself. I am not enthusiastic about buying one from a vendor for $260 when I can buy something aftermarket for $180 less that will probably work better, i.e., use less current & have a higher CFM. Does anyone know what the specs are of the OEM fans? How many CFM do they move? Summit Racing has model PRM-19010, a 10" fan, 1,250 cfm rating for $80. Since I'm planning for a lot more horsepower someday (an engine swap) I want all the cooling I can get especially considering all the customizing that Bob Brandys did with using larger radiator pipes & such on his conversion. Walt Tampa, FL