>From what Rob told me at the NCDMC meet, there is an "upgrade" that you can do to the striker pins so that you have a greater range of adjustment. I believe he said that the later cars were built with this upgrade done already. The gist of it is that you cut away the fiberglass so that the striker pins can be screwed in further. You then use shims to set the depth just right. You also end up with a bit more vertical and horizontal room to play with also (I believe). The cutaways are then covered with rubber boots. Rob told me that he has made up some sort of pattern to trace onto wood and then cut out. These wooden templates then help you find exactly how much of the fiberglass should be cut out. The tortion bar adjustment is a different thing. This should be done if AFTER replacing your struts your doors are still sagging. That's what the eBay item is referring to also. I also have a problem with my passenger door hitting the striker pins quite hard when closing the door. I believe the striker pin update would take care of this, but I still haven't heard back from Rob on obtaining the pattern and any possible instructions that he has for the procedure. -Christian On Fri, 15 Mar 2002, stevepeck1 wrote: > I need a door strike adjustment procedure. Does this involve bending > the DOORS? My driver's door bangs the aluminum receiver into the > catch post (sorry for the incorrect part names) and has worn a groove > into it. It also requires quite a bit of OOMPH to get it to shut. >