As you may already know that this "white relay" is not acctually a relay it's a delay circuit. The problem with blowing all of the fuses is most likely not an issue with the lights or wiring but is a problem with the module. I know this is hard to understand that lights still work when the module is removed but, this is because they designed light circuit to be passive (for some very odd reason, possibly future upgrades?). The module pulls the high side (+) of the light circuit very close to ground thus diverting the current through the module instead of the the lights (shutting the lights off). Inside this little white box is a very complex R/C circuit with the final stage controled by an transistor (basicly, a timer with a voltage controled switch). The transistor is far to small for the amount of current that it controls and considering that when the lights are off the module is still operating with a heavy load on the transistor, thus promting a possibility to fail. What probibly happened is that transistor inside overheated and shorted out and instead of limiting the current it was a wide open short to ground. A while back I was curious why my interior lights would almost dim and flicker before they shut of, so I opened up the box and mapped out the circuit. In my case the capacitor inside was bad. I also had plans to redesign this circuit but never got around to it. Matt Lakewood,Co Vin# 3157 --- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Adam Price" <acprice1@xxxx> wrote: > > > Hello, I am wondering if you have any advice for me > on this problem(?) Well, > the other day I noticed that my internal lights and > door lights were not > turning on.