To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address: moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews ------------------------------------------------------------------------ There are 8 messages in this issue. Topics in this digest: 1. Re: Re: TA Bolt questions From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx> 2. delorean.com is down - usadmc.com is up From: James Espey <james@xxxxxxxxxx> 3. More Sunstar Model Woes... From: "Jeff" <Gr8old1@xxxxxxx> 4. RE: air induction bolt broken! help! From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> 5. Re: Fuel Glitch From: jeff@xxxxxxxxxx 6. New DeLorean 1:18 Model From: "Emily" <delorean.girl@xxxxxxxxxxx> 7. RE: More Sunstar Model Woes... From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> 8. Courtesies relay?!?!? From: "Adam Price" <acprice1@xxxxxxxxxxx> ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 1 Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 17:49:21 -0500 From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx> Subject: Re: Re: TA Bolt questions Toby, It would be interesting to know (if you can tell us) what the differences are between an 8.8, 10.9 & 12.9 hardness bolt. I realize that the higher the number the harder the bolt, but do these numbers carry any units of measurement? Also with your gourmet alloy bolt (I suppose we are calling them Toby bolts now), what is the number for it? Or does it even have a number? John Hervey, I disagree about it being okay for the TABs to bend a little as they settle in place. If driving the car produces enough forces to bend the bolt once, then I would suspect that several cycles of this force would eventually break the bolt. I would rather fix something once and have it stay fixed. I can live with changing my oil on a regular basis, but not my TABs. That job was a major PITA with the larger automatic tranny in the way. When I had my alignment checked, I told the mechanic to just check the rear alignment and not try to make any adjustments. He suggested removing one shim from the driver's side, but I am reluctant to do this. For now I'm thinking that I am better off with the rear alignment slightly out than putting the TAB through another torque cycle. I am planning on upgrading to Toby bolts until I can get a stainless frame, but that is a whole nother deal. Walt Tampa, FL ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 2 Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 16:01:29 -0600 From: James Espey <james@xxxxxxxxxx> Subject: delorean.com is down - usadmc.com is up DNS snafus have brought the URL delorean.com 'down', though the same site works through http://www.usadmc.com... Sorry for any inconvenience this have have caused anyone! James Espey DeLorean Motor Company Houston, Texas 281/568-9573 800/USA-DMC1 http://www.delorean.com ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 3 Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 22:06:34 -0000 From: "Jeff" <Gr8old1@xxxxxxx> Subject: More Sunstar Model Woes... Hi everyone, like most of you , i too ordered the Sunstar model actually a couple of them. I too have what i feel are defective doors. On the one model i did open, the driver's door works great, the passengers door on the other hand falls right back shut. These doors are surprisingly heavy! I also noticed a bit of play in the passengers door when sliding it back and forth along the T-panel. This is the root i think of the inabaility for the doors to stay open. Also, my louvres work great, but i didn't notice if anybody has checked the engine compartment cover. Mine doesn't work. it also falls right back down. the only way to get it to stay up is to open the louvres, open the compartment lid, and then wedge the louvres down on the compartment cover. But as i right this i'm examining that there is actually a wedge in the spine under them. i'm supposing this is the intended design. i personally feel that a small wire or something attached to both would make a finer detail. That way, the compartment cover opens WITH the louvres. I feel that maybe by taking a toothpick and painting it black, it could be used as faux struts. or wedge a small bit toothpick to tighten up the play along the t-panel. Anybody got any other solutions? Any word from Sunstar on why the doors only work partially? -Jeff Chabotte Norwich, CT About to acheive the dream. ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 4 Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 16:08:36 -0600 From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: RE: air induction bolt broken! help! Andy, Go get a stud remover. It uses a cam action to grip the stud while you unscrew it. It connects to your socket wrench. I had to buy one and found it at a NAPA store for about $30. It sure beats drilling a hole in your head. Your local muffler shop may have one that you could "Rent". Scott Mueller DMCNEWS 002981 DOA 5031 -----Original Message----- From: Soma576@xxxxxxx [mailto:Soma576@xxxxxxx] Subject: [DML] air induction bolt broken! help! Hey all, well i decided to be a fool and remove my air induction manifold. looks like i got more than i bargained for, just like i was afraid of. the bolt that holds the manifold to the engine casing near the #6 cylinder (closest to the A/C comp) broke in half while removing it. Andy ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 5 Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 22:27:57 -0000 From: jeff@xxxxxxxxxx Subject: Re: Fuel Glitch Hi Christian: When this happens at 1/4 tank, check the hose that goes between the fuel pump and the fuel pickup strainer, inside the tank. Look for a cracked hose just below where it is secured to the pump. This happened to me... at 1/4 tank the fuel level was below the crack in the hose, and I began to suck air into the hose, causing the car to lurch, especially at turns and accelleration. Jeff Angwin VIN 3034 --- In dmcnews@xxxx, Christian Williams <delorean@xxxx> wrote: > Okay, I recall that this is a pretty common DeLorean thing, so I'm sure > it'll be pretty easy for someone to clue me in. > > When I get down to about a quarter tank of gas, my car lurches quite > suddenly and quite hard ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 6 Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 23:34:44 -0000 From: "Emily" <delorean.girl@xxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: New DeLorean 1:18 Model Hello All If some of you havent already checked, there is a brand new DeLorean model out there that is finally bigger than the Corgi and BTTF models! It is a brand new 9" model made by a company called Sunstar. I first came across the new model in a catalog called "Things You Never Knew Existed" for $40. After telling a DeLorean friend about my findings, he told me that it is for sale for $27 at www.diecastmuscle.com. The model looks to be in great shape and both doors go up. Not only is there the normal DMC, there is also the American Express gold DeLorean (also $27) as well as a full BTTF 1:18 scale model for $25. I have also heard that it is for sale at DMC Houston and has been spotted at Toys R' Us stores. I thought I would post this message to inform others out there who want a nice D model that is larger than the previous. Hope this helps any of you out there! Sincerely, Emily Sweeney ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 7 Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 17:45:35 -0600 From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: RE: More Sunstar Model Woes... My doors don't stay up either. I figured that it was part of the realism. ;>) Scott Mueller DMCNEWS 002981 DOA 5031 ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 8 Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 15:50:23 -0800 From: "Adam Price" <acprice1@xxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: Courtesies relay?!?!? Hello, I am wondering if you have any advice for me on this problem(?) Well, the other day I noticed that my internal lights and door lights were not turning on. I checked the fuse for "courtesies" and it was blown. I replaced the fuse and it blew the second it made contact. I blew a number of fuses testing this. I then removed the relay and replaced the fuse... and it works!! The internal lights and door lights all function normally turning on and off when the door closes or when switches are pushed. So I am confused. Why does the circuit work correctly with the relay removed?? I removed the white relay. Any advice you can give is greatly appreciated!thanks, Adam >_________________________________________________________________ > > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at > > http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp > > > > >__________________________________________________ >Do You Yahoo!? >Find a job, post your resume. >http://careers.yahoo.com _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
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