Although it could be a bad radiater pressure cap a more likely cause is a small leak. After several heating and cooling cycles you will lose enough coolant to trap air in the water pump and then it stops circulating coolant with the engine temp then climbing rapidly. You MUST pressure test the system to 15 psi for 15 minutes minimum. Even if you don't see any leaks if it can't hold pressure you must fix the source of the pressure loss. If the leak is on top of the engine you won't see the coolant comming out! It is very possible that you are still using the ORIGIONAL hoses and seals under the intake manifold and they are 20 YEARS OLD! If you want a reliable colling system the only fix is to replace ALL of the hoses and seals and belts and water pump. While you are at it idler bearings, thermostat and gasket, bleeder screw, otterstadt and seal, upgraded cooling fan circuit breaker and metal header bottle. If you can afford it a Fanzilla is also a must do item.( At the VERY least get rid of the fan fail relay!) Most of the Delorean venders sell what they call a Master kit with just about all of these items including silicone hoses and better hose clamps. Depending on your skill level and finances this is not an area of the car to skimp on. If any part of the cooling system fails the car overheats.( The chain only as strong as the weakest link scenario.) In summer heat with the A/C on the cooling system is working it's hardest and that's the time neglected systems have problems. Refill with 50/50 mix of soft water and a national brand of anti-freeze, bleed thoughly at the water pump and the radiater and you should be OK for a long time. Test the radiater cap with the pressure tester too. When you check the oil in the motor always put your fingers around the hose going to the water pump to see if the belt is cutting a groove into it on the bottom (where you can't see). If it is just bend the support bracket a little to keep the hose away. David Teitelbaum vin 10757 --- In dmcnews@xxxx, Mike Substelny <msubstel@xxxx> wrote: > Mike Allred wrote: > > > Today while driving my D. it was about 92 degrees and my temperature gauge > > never showed hot but when I stopped and cut off the engine it was over > > flowing antifreeze through the overflow hose. The radiator fan never cut on. > > > > Where do you think my problem is? Temperature gauge, fan, temperature > > sending unit or other? > > Because your temp gage never got high I will assume this is not an electrical > problem. This is a plumbing problem. > > Several things could cause these symptoms, but if you are lucky it is just air > in your cooling system and/or low coolant. Top off your coolant, then bleed > your system or install a self-bleeder. > > The second most lucky thing it could be is a bad radiator cap. Considering the > age of our car, I expect bad radiator caps to start coming up more often in the > coming years. > > Liquid cooled engines use pressure to keep coolant in liquid form even when they > are heated above their boiling point. They operate in a very specific > pressure/temperature range. The systems use spring-loaded radiator caps > designed to release coolant if the pressure gets too high. Coolant is released > through that overflow hose. Because it is hotter than its boiling point, > coolant released by a radiator cap boils the instant it hit the atmosphere. > > Over time a radiator cap spring and seal will wear out. When they do, the cap > can release steaming coolant from an engine that is operating normally. Tjis > might be exactly what happened to you. > > You can test your radiator cap with the same pressure tester you use to bleed > your cooling system. If you do not have a pressure tester, just inspect the cap > visually. You might get lucky and find the cap is worn out and there is nothing > else wrong with your DeLorean. > > Either way, DO NOT drive a DeLorean with an overheated engine! > > - Mike Substelny