I agree. As long as you prep the surface (remove any grease/dirt), lightly sand it down to remove any blemishes and to give the paint a nice semi rough surface the stick too, you will have really good results. Use a primer as a base after sanding it down; it will hide any deep gouges and scratches and help the paint adhere much better. Avoid painting outdoors in windy conditions otherwise you'll wind up with leaves, grass, bugs, etc. as a permanent show piece on the painted surface. Apply THIN even coats; if you apply it to thick, you will wind up with paint runs. And also DON'T rush, take your time, wait for the paint to dry before applying the next thin coat. You'll be surprised of the outcome, close to or even better then professionally done. Steve --- In dmcnews@xxxx, dherv10@xxxx wrote: > Walt, I agree and disagree. I have painted two of them and I cleaned > the armorall off with soap and water and fantastic. I used 200 grit > wet sand paper to get out small blemishes. Lightly sand. Then when I > sprayed, I stood back as far as I could to get the paint on. and it > also added the little rough finish to them like the original. The > 1200 degree grill I would think would do good, I just happened to use > bumper black paint. They don't look hand painted. > John > > --- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Walter" <Whalt@xxxx> wrote: > > ***** Moderator's Note > > As with any automotive refinishing project, proper surface > > preparation and the correct tools are an important part of > > success. Consult with an autobody specialist before attempting > > any large-surface restoration for the proper techniques and tools. > > ***** > > > > Every repainted louver I have seen didn't look good. I think the > problem > > starts from painting over Armor-all with the 'fish eye' effect > coming > > through. Another mistake I have seen is people using a gloss > paint. Gloss > > paint makes imperfections show up all the more.