I think the first thing to determine is if it is a fuel or ignition problem. Get some kind of tester on the ignition circuit, primary or secondary and see if it stops when the engine quits. This could just be a problem in the ignition resistor "run" circuit. Refer to M:18:03 in Workshop manual. Check the ignition switch, resistor, and wiring. You are correct in that it would be helpful to observe the fuel pressure at the time it stops but we can narrow down the possibilities. If you believe the ignition to be operating at the time it stops then hook up a meter or lite and watch the power to the fuel pump to see if it stops first. If you see the fuel pump stop then go through the electrical circuit that controls the pump. Since it does start I think you will find it to be an electrical problem that is at the root. Check the RPM relay, connections and wiring. A long shot is that when they did the fuel tank work they kinked the fuel pick-up hose.(You can never trust anyone's work if when they are done it is WORSE then when it went in and then they start "guessing" and using the "shotgun" approach. Diagnose in a logical sequence starting at a good foundation of known parts or systems. This is what separates the "mechanics" (read parts replacers) from an automotive technician. Sometimes they guess lucky but most of the time it is very expensive for the hapless owners when they replace a lot of good parts until they accidently replace the faulty part. In some cases the parts were never bad but in the act of replacing the part and reconnecting the new part the dirty connection that caused the problem is made better. Parts replacers take heed! Bad connections are common on a 20 year old car. David Teitelbaum vin 10757 --- In dmcnews@xxxx, tucker11199@xxxx wrote: > Thanks Dave S., David T., and Bruce B for the info > on a gauge. > Your right David, maybe the list could help diagnose > this fuel problem. Well, here goes. > Tucker > 16940