Even with the best penetrating fluid I find that it is sometimes impossible to remove some exhaust hardware. I like to heat parts up with a torch to dull cherry red. It saves rounding off nuts, stripping threads, breaking studs, and scrapped knuckles. The downside is the fire danger to rubber lines or fuel lines and the chance of burning your hands. If you break off studs be prepared to drill out the broken part, no small task considering the weird angles, tight space, and the fact that you are drilling out a steel stud in an aluminum casting. You must be "dead on" and stay there, no small feat in a confined space. Then you must be able to get a larger drill in there and then a tap followed by the insert and tool, not a very desireable scenerio so just don't break any studs! Check the manifold for flatness after removing, if it has been leaking a long time it may not be flat in which case it may be necessary to take it to a machine shop to take a light cut to flatten it out if it is too much to do with a hand file. When replacing use Never-seize or something similar on the hardware so it is easier to take it apart in the future. David Teitelbaum vin 10757 --- In dmcnews@xxxx, mrvideosawyer@xxxx wrote: > > >Dear Dennis, > 1. SOAK all fastners (bolts and studs) with penatrating oil. > 2. Go inside and come back the next day. Takes about an hour and a half of rolling around on the floor when it all said and done, thats's per sie. > > jim sawyer > vin4149 > "ELMO > __________________________________________________________________ > Get your own FREE, personal Netscape Webmail account today at http://webmail.netscape.com/