You should also check the connections at the fuel fill, make sure that the hoses are all the way on, the clamps are tight, and the rubber is not cracked or dryrotted. If you do not have the correct fittings on the accumulater that is a sign that someone at some time kinked the lines or damaged the fittings to the accumulater. A previous post had a similar problem and said Rob Grady told him to remove the body to replace the fuel lines. He was asking the list if there was any other way out. I do not recall any answers to help him so I assume that the only way to properly repair the lines is to lift the body and replace them. Two of the lines carry high pressure gas, the third is only a return just incase the diaghram in the accumulater ruptures. There really is no good way to repair with hose clamps and there is no room to cut and flare a splice. Before I would go chasing a leak I would make sure all of the connections and hardware is correct. The most obvious sources of leaks would be any area of the fuel system that is not origional ie: components that were changed like the fuel filter, tankzilla, (I can't imagine the problem you claim to be having trying to get a good seal) fuel pump and boot, and fuel acumulater. It is common to have a fuel smell after refueling especially if you "top-off" but it should not persist. If you smell fuel continuosly I recommend that you do not drive until you determine the source and repair it. I have seen what happens to a car with a high pressure fuel injection system when fuel leaks and it isn't pretty. By the time someone gets to you with a fire extinguisher there won't be much left. If you get a kick out of holding the gauge to your ear when the trans shifts make up a box with 2 lights and connect to the plug on the firewall going to the 2 solenoids. You can watch the lights and then feel the trans shift 1/2 second later. Check out the trans hold in D2 and D1. See if it works on your shift computer. David Teitelbaum vin 10757