Hi to all our DML members, It's been a while sense my last post. My D has been laid up for the last couple of months with a broken clutch (5) speed. I lost all pedal just as I got home, and ended up pushing it up the drive-way and into the hanger. After checking the fluid level and finding it empty! and finding a stained driver side carpet indicating that the clutch master cylinder was probably the problem, I ordered one from PJ Grady. It took quite a while to get around to starting the repair because I thought it was going to be difficult and time consuming. It turned out that even with needing a second person to hold a Phillips to remove the two nuts, the whole remove and replace job took an hour. All that is left is the bleeding, The original unit look fine, although on the dirty side. I found some indication of wetness around the plunger but not the dripping I expected. When I opened the seal end which on the original has a metal band holding the seal in place I discovered a rusty nasty wet mess. Removing the plunger requires the removing of a snap ring. Once cleaned up the plunger is installed in the new master cylinder, which comes with a new snap ring. Installing the new master cylinder is easy enough, as is the connecting of the fluid fill hose and the hydraulic line back to the slave cylinder. Every time something breaks I get the feeling that the problem will never be fixed, and every time I dive in I find that I enjoy working on my D, Now all that's left is to bleed the lines. Well the bleeding is done and the clutch works! Now a question? Any one who has ever had to bleed the clutch line knows what a bitch it is just to reach and what a mess it makes, especially when a master cylinder is replaced and you are faced with bleeding most of the line contents to get all the air out. I have come up with a single tool that will do the following: 1. loosen the bleeder screw with out removing the Engine CVR or even reaching behind the engine. 2. collects all the Dot-4 as it is bled (spl?) off and puts in a container and not the bell housing or floor. 3. loosens and tightens the bleed screw during the bleeding cycle, again with out requiring reaching down behind the engine and is used to tighten screw when bleeding is complete. If you are interested in such an item please let me know via direct e-mail using reply! just say "me too" TTFN Lee ------------------------------------------------------------------------ eGroup home: http://www.eGroups.com/group/dmcnews Free Web-based e-mail groups by eGroups.com