[DML] Re: Engine Oil "Enemas"

["content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Rings are lubricated by oil slung up from the crankshaft. Hard to
imagine anything interfering with that.

Oil galleys are a different story altogether. I once bought a 1982 AMC
with so much crap in its oil passages that the lifters couldn't pump
up properly. Cleaned them out by idling with diesel fuel in the
crankcase. Car has worked flawlessly since (gave it to my little
brother, where it continues in daily service). 

PRV has legendary oil delivery problems. Volvo newsgroups are full of
tales of clogged passages and orifices. Excessive engine heat surely
doesn't help (barbeques the oil). Anything you can do to keep them
clear & flowing is an improvement.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxx> wrote:
> I don't know that I buy the congealed oil stuff, but I did 
> experience what I believed to be some stuck piston rings in a D that 
> had been sitting for over five years. My concern was getting oil 
> flow open to the rings and dissolving any sludge, etc. My search 
> turned up a product made in Germany called LM Lubro Moly Oil Sludge 
> Remover. I found it at a foreign auto parts store in Houston. I have 
> not seen it at the usual places like NAPA, etal. The parts manager 
> had a B28 Volvo and said he had used it in his engine and thought it 
> was great stuff. So I decided to try it.
> 
> This stuff is to be used before an oil change for about 200 miles 
> and drained hot. I did that. The oil I drained was only a 1000 miles 
> old and was it black. After that, no more noisy pistons and the oil 
> stayed clean. That was about 45,000 miles ago. That's the only time 
> I have used the sludge remover and it seemed to do the job.
> 
> Harold McElraft - 3354
> 
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "captain_hydrogen" 
> <captainhydrogen@xxxx> wrote:
> > [MODERATOR'S NOTE: The debate on preferred motor oil comes up 
> often and this will not be one of those debates. This is not a 
> question about what the best motor oil is and responses of that form 
> will be dumped as being repetitive with the massive archive we have 
> on oil.]
> > 
> > I will be changing to Mobil 1 Synthetic next weekend and would 
> like 
> > some opinions or factual information concerning something the guy 
> at 
> > the auto store said.  I told him that prior to buying my DeLorean, 
> it 
> > sat dormant for a few years with all fluids present.  He said that 
> > over time, sediment can gather in the bottom of the oil pan and 
> other 
> > places and when changing over to synthetic oil, the smaller 
> molecules 
> > of the synthetic medium can loosen the old sediment and 
> > cause "chunks" of congealed oil to clog the passage ways.  He 
> > suggested that I use a motor flush prior to changing oil and 
> pointed 
> > me to the motor flush section.  He said that anyone will work, but 
> > pointed to one he had experience with, "Fast Motor Flush, 5-Minute 
> > Engine Cleaner, by CRC (www.crcindustries.com, part #05336)".  I 
> > bought two cans because of the amount of oil used in the engine.  
> If 
> > I need it, I have it, if I don't need it, I can return it.
> > 
> > The question is, do I need it, or did I buy two cans of "snake 
> oil"?  
> > Is what the auto store guy said true?  Since I will be changing 
> over 
> > to synthetic oil, is it possible that not using a motor flush 
> prior 
> > to the change, can damage my engine?
> > 
> > Looking for answers and clarity.
> > 
> > Thank you,
> > Ben Ferguson
> > Arizona DeLorean Club, VIN 10365
> > American Hydrogen Association
> > captainhydrogen@xxxx




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