Re: [DML] My car won't start

[Soma576@xxxxxxx]

In a message dated 8/31/04 9:08:22 PM Central Daylight Time, dmcfive0@xxxxxxx 
writes:


> Does it sound like it's not starting because the 
> battery was low, or because I turned the mixture screw too much? It 
> always started before I played around with the mixture screw. Any 
> help, suggestions greatly appreciated! 
> Thanks in advance,
> Mike
> 5623

Mike,

Lucky for you, you only have two variables here.  the mixture screw is 
definitely part of the problem since it died, then failed to restart.  before you go 
'fixing' things again (LOL) you need a fully charged battery. put it on a 
slow charger all night long, then try adjusting the screw again.  the screw is 
very sensitive to changes and it doesn't take much between a car running and one 
that's not, and there is a very fine point where the car will run REALLY well 
(actually, the stoichiometric ratio is a little off from maximum power OR 
maximum economy, but i bet you are looking for an even-sounding idle (a feat in 
itself).  my guess is you have the car running too lean.  try turning the idle 
screw clockwise about 15 degrees, replace the rubber CO plug (if you don't, 
that's a big vacuum leak) and try starting the car. don't keep cranking on it. 
it won't start but it will wear down your battery.  try turning the screw 15 
deg again. replace plug and try to start.  once you get it running, you can 
either attempt to tune it by ear, or a better idea is to use a dwell meter to 
check the frequency valve duty cycle, thereby inferring the CO level.  

since you were adjusting the screw in the first place, i am guessing you have 
more problems then a screw out of adjustment.  when you get it running again, 
you should spend a few bucks and do a full ignition tune up, fuel system tune 
up, replace air filter if dirty, check timing, and check all of your vacuum 
hoses for correct routing.  better yet, replace them all if they are dry or 
cracked.  try this revealing test also - turn the key into the 'on' position, and 
go back to the engine.  turn the throttle spool as if you were accelerating, 
then slowly let it go back again.  you should hear two distinct 'click' 
sounds.  the first is the idle speed microswitch being tripped by the throttle 
hammer at the end of the linkage (which is what tells the idle speed motor to begin 
metering air to the engine since the butterfly plates are closed) and the 
other click can be heard at the back of the engine between the fuel distributer 
and the firewall.  that little canister with vacuum lines and an electrical 
connector is the ignition advance solenoid/canister.  this solenoid determines if 
the ignition recieves vacuum advance.  if it doesn't click, you may have 
advance at inappropriate times.  only after EVERYTHING is verified correct and is 
brand new (if a disposable part), should you try to set the CO screw.  many 
people try to turn this screw as a 'magic idle fixer' when in reality the 
problem is a simple crack in a hose or whatever.

good luck,
Andy


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
Yahoo! Groups Links

<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
    http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/

<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
    dmcnews-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
    http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/