Last I saw your engine you were setting idle speed manually by cracking the throttle plates. Unless you've reactivated CIS, you're in control of idle speed. Is set high to accomodate the A/C compressor load. When fall comes you can dial it back full time until next summer. Are you still running that Series 038 CPR? If so, don't try to route its vacuum enrichment like a Series 066 (factory). Should be connected directly to full manifold vacuum at all times, with no delay valve or thermal switch. In fact: if you're going to continue to use that CPR I'd recommend jetisoning remaining vacuum hoses in lieu of vacuum advance taken from the ported line from under the throttle plates. You'd only have two engine vacuum lines then: 1) directly from the manifold to the CPR 2) directly from the ported nipple to the distributor Thermal vacuum switch would be unused under the intake (plug its former takeoff on the driver intake rail with a 3/16" vacuum cap). I seem to remember your CPR Tee'd from the vacuum canister purge line. The smaller line next to it is the ported purge signal. Simply insert a 3/16" Tee in it and run a hose to the distributor. Note that you may need to switch to idling from the brass manifold screws rather than cracking the throttle plates (cracking them is what opens that ported nipple). Mode switch will hiss as it routes vacuum internally between different positions. You're only in trouble if it hisses while stationary in the same position. Contact me off List (brobertson(at)carolina.net) if you'd like to arrange a vacuum hose tech session. Bill Robertson #5939 >--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Louie G <louie@xxxx> wrote: > I was just wondering if anyone could confirm to me that my vacuum hose routing into my vacuum solonoid is correct. I have the line with the u-shaped bend connected to the port closest to the electrical connector. > > Also, my mode switch hisses when I turn it while the car is not running. That means I've got a vacuum leak there, right? The car is idling at about 1000-1100 rpms when it gets warm. When the car is cold it idles glassy smooth at 750rpms. I've replaced my microswitch, vacuum solonoid, idle speed motor, and have adjusted my throttle arm to ensure there's no play in it and I still idles high. Turning on the A/C compressor kicks the idle down to where it should be. This seems to tell me I've still got a vacuum leak somewhere. Should I try a mode switch next? Looking through my receipts folder the car's past owner replaced the mode switch multiple times. Are they just badly made parts, or could there be a reason why my car is chewing through so many? > > Louie Golden > VIN 5252 Charlotte, NC To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address: moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: dmcnews-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/