Uh...I'm not sure you completely read the earlier posts. I have indeed replaced the ignition ECU, I was loaned a functional spare for testing. There was no improvement. I do understand how breaker-less ignition works, now that I've been reading up on it. Some new theories are: 1. Despite the resistance being in spec, the pulse coil is dying, giving the ECU a poor signal to amplify and convert. (Garbage in=garbage out) 2. The ECU is poorly grounded. (check grounds) 3. The shielded cable from the ECU to the dizz is faulty. (continuity check) 4. The white/slate control wire from the ECU to the coil is faulty. (continuity check) 5. The mostly-new rotor is faulty (It has a 5k ohm resistor in it, resistance check) I rule out the main coil-dizz wire because I've tried two and there was no change in performance. No matter if my timing advance was faulty, or if I was starving for fuel, the spark should be strong. It doesn't matter if the plugs fire at the wrong time, or on an empty cylinder. The timing light should still strobe under those conditions. --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "content22207" <brobertson@xxxx> wrote: > The ONLY thing you haven't replaced is the ignition ECU... > > Do you understand how coils build up HT electricity? Normally grounded > breakerless module (or points) momentarily breaks that ground, <snip> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address: moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: dmcnews-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/