RE: [DML] Re: Turbo question

["Joseph Kuchan" <josephkuchan@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

One other thing (if it isn't already obvious) if the turbines are not 
turning due to misadjusted clamps, toasted bearings, or what have you, then 
what you have is a big restriction in both the exhaust and the air 
induction. Either one alone is pretty bad for performance, but both at the 
same time is killer. The car will run, but very poorly.

I think you need to have a look at whether or not the turbos can spin 
freely, and also look at the turbine and compressor blades to see if there's 
any sign of damage.

I have had dealings with both Turbo City and Turbonetics. I agree with the 
moderator. Both are good. Another shop I found to be very good is Limit 
Engineering in Lake Havasu City, AZ. They are primarily a Garrett shop, but 
John Craig has lots of experience with older turbos. He was very helpful to 
my son and me when we were troubleshooting problems with my son's BAE setup. 
They had parts for the Rajay turbo that BAE used.

-Joe Kuchan


>From: "michael townsley" <townfour@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>Reply-To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>Subject: RE: [DML] Re: Turbo question
>Date: Mon, 26 Jul 2004 23:01:07 -0400
>
>( Moderator's note: www.turbonetics.com is a good turbo source. They own 
>the Rajay name now and service and sell them. The Rajay is the turbo used 
>on the BAE single turbo kits. www.turbocity.com is another source for 
>rebuilds and rebuild kits.)
>
>
>I have an 83 with an early set of island turbos i.e. no cats...I have not
>been able to figure out if they are working right or not. When I accelerate
>or rev up the engine...the boost gauge drops to zero and recovers very
>slowly...also I get a putt putt sound when accelerating from a stopped
>position and it has pretty slow to pick up. I am not sure whether or not
>these units have any oil cooling at all...I have not seen any information
>that says they do nor have I noticed any oil lines traveling to them.
>
>I have not been able to find anyone I would trust to look at them...PJ 
>Grady
>told me he does not work on them any more and Calloway (Turbo Charged)
>Corvettes which is nearby also would not touch them ... additionally I
>contacted this woman Eleanor who used to market the kits after her husband
>passed away and she sent me some specification info but could not recommend
>anyone who could service them in New England...I have no idea whether these
>units are helping or hurting the car's performance.
>
>Sincerely,
>
>Mike
>
>Michael W. Townsley
>2 Fox Hill Road
>Old Saybrook, Connecticut 06475
>860 304 2412
>townfour@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Chris Shepherd [mailto:chrisau79@xxxxxxxxx]
>Sent: Monday, July 26, 2004 6:44 PM
>To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>Subject: Re: [DML] Re: Turbo question
>
>I disagree. I've got an "Island" setup on my car and it has been on the car
>for 11 years. I've been the owner for 10. I pull into the garage and turn
>the engine off. I pull into a parking place and turn the engine off. The
>only time the turbos' come into play is when I'm passing someone or going 
>up
>a really steep grade at elevation, the Siskiou Summit for example. The rest
>of the time they are just idling along with no boost. Yes they are spinning
>but they are not generating any heat greater than the exhaust passing
>through them.There is no way I know of to cool them below the exhaust temp.
>before shutting the engine off anyway.
>
>David Teitelbaum <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:What I have seen, usually on
>race cars, is an accumulater type system
>that pumps up oil pressure while the motor is running and holds it so
>when you first start the motor up it supplies oil under pressure until
>the motor's oil pump can. They aren't usually filtered because of the
>large flows required. The oil also performs another important
>function, it cools the bearings, which is why you NEVER shut an engine
>equiped with a turbo right down, you should wait for the turbo to
>spool down and cool a little. If you don't the oil literaly cooks. It
>gets so bad that the drain cokes up and gets plugged up with burnt
>oil. When that happens you don't get a full flow of oil to the
>bearings and they burn up. You also MUST change the oil 2X more often
>with a turbo. It is also a good idea to use synthetic, it is more
>durable with the high temperatures. Even though synthetic is expensive
>the oil is cheaper than the turbos!
>David Teitelbaum
>vin 10757
>
>
>-- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "B BENSON" wrote:
> > > Something that I've noticed with every single turbo >set up that I've
> > > seen installed is dirty oil being used to lube the >turbines. Weather
> > > it's a "T" inline from the oil pressure sending unit, or a >pickup
> > > line pulling oil directly from the sump. Why? If you >want to prolong
> > > the life of the turbos, retrofit your car to supply >CLEAN oil to the
> > > turbos.
> > >
> > > -Robert
> > > vin 6585 "X"
> >
> >
> >
> > Where else do you think you'd get oil from? The types of turbos used
>in the
> > kit's that were offered for DeLoreans are the type that float the
>impeller
> > shaft in oil which is flowing through holes in the bushing
>surrounding the
> > shaft. The life of that bushing can be measured in seconds if not
> > milliseconds if oil flow is inadequate or disrupted when under
>boost. Trying
> > to install filtering up stream of the turbo or trying to design a
>separate
> > source for the oil shouldn't even be considered as a part of the system.
> >
> > Bruce Benson
>
>
>
>
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