[DML] Re: Trailing arm bolt procedure w/ jack stands?

["David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

To actually remove and replace the T.A.B's you have to remove all
weight from the suspension. After you have replaced them, BEFORE YOU
TORQUE THEM, YOU MUST place the weight of the car on the suspension
that is have the wheels on the ground (like you would over a pit). On
an automatic the extra step is to remove the attach bolts on the left
trailing arm that connects it to the left rear carrier. Don't touch
the brake line, just be careful and move the trailing arm enough to
get the bolt out and back in. Another tip, COUNT THE SHIMS. Write the
# on the frame for each side with magic marker and check the
thicknesses. When you take the bolts out first loosen them and then
rotate the head of the bolt. If the trailing arm moves up and down the
bolt is bent and you may have to slice it up into pieces to get it
out. The bolts could also be frozen into the rubber bushing. In that
case you may wind up destroying the bushing in the process of removing
the bolt.
On the subject of the shields, Rob Grady sells a kit that replaces the
studs. They usually break or spin making it hard to do the shields.
His kit hooks the 3 bolts together and makes it easy.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Soma576@xxxx wrote:
> In a message dated 5/6/04 5:50:42 PM Central Daylight Time,
dmcvegas@xxxx 
> writes:
> 
> 
> > Now as I said before, this method will work on *most* DeLoreans. If 
> > your car is lowered in the front, the pitch may force the spoiler to 
> > scrape the ground, depending upon how low you decided to go. And if 
> > you've got an Automatic Transmission, there is an extra step that 
> > you'll need to go thru, in order to get to these bolts.
> 
> How about this twist?  I plan on doing my TA bolts in the pit where
i work. 
> as in, the car drives in and there is a big opening under the car ]




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