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------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 25 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Tuning Idle Speed Circuit. (was: Re: idle problem)
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>
2. Re: POR 15
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj@xxxxxxxxx>
3. Delorean Tile Grout--No Kidding!
From: "deloreanss304" <maurit@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
4. Re: orginal shop manual
From: deloreanernst@xxxxxxx
5. Tuning Idle Speed Circuit. (was: Re: idle problem)
From: "Adam 16683" <acprice1@xxxxxxxxxxx>
6. Re: Delorean Tile Grout--No Kidding!
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker@xxxxxxxxx>
7. Re: Delorean in Hong Kong
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
8. Re: Tuning Idle Speed Circuit. (was: Re: idle problem)
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
9. Fuel Pump Change
From: "anaheim_21" <anaheim_21@xxxxxxxxx>
10. State Inspection
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
11. Re: Fuel Pump Change
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle@xxxxxxxxxxx>
12. Re: State Inspection
From: "Toby Peterson" <tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
13. Re: POR 15
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
14. Re: Re: Fuel Pump Change
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
15. RE: State Inspection
From: <krasniy@xxxxxxxxxxx>
16. Re: POR 15
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker@xxxxxxxxx>
17. Squirrley steering
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
18. Re: State Inspection
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
19. Cincinnati Car Show This Sunday
From: "p12c16" <p12c16@xxxxxxxxx>
20. Question about window regulators
From: "dmcorlando2003" <SundeQuick@xxxxxxx>
21. Master Cylinder bore/stroke
From: "at88mph" <at88mph@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
22. Re: Squirrley steering
From: "Toby Peterson" <tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
23. Re: custom exhaust manifolds
From: Steve Deichman <swdeichman@xxxxxxxxx>
24. Re: Fuel Pump Change
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>
25. Re: State Inspection
From: "supermattthehero" <supermatty@xxxxxxx>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Thu, 11 Sep 2003 02:04:30 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Tuning Idle Speed Circuit. (was: Re: idle problem)
I just read carefully the note you attached. The delay valve is in
fact in a reversed condition than that called for in the D when used
in a spark delay setup because the spark advance needs slowed down
some to eliminate "ping". The "Carb" side in that case is attached
to venturi vacuum which increases with throttle. The D setup is
attached to manifold vacuum that decreases with throttle. The delay
effect in the D is a bleed-down where the spark setup calls for a
delay in applied vacuum.
Harold McElraft - 3354
-- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Adam 16683" <acprice1@xxxx> wrote:
> I am getting opposite opinions on which direction the delay valve
is
> supposed to face. Harold, are you sure that the "dist" side goes
> toward the vacuum supply/tee fitting?
> Adam Price 16683
>
>
> --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxx>
> wrote:
> > Is the delay valve installed in the correct direction? It is the
> > plastic vacuum valve located at the control pressure regulator.
> > The "Dist" side goes on the vacuum supply side.
> >
> > Harold McElraft - 3354
> >
> > Just removed one of these from a Lincoln. Was going to throw
away.
> If anyone going to SEDOC wants, let me know and I'll bring with.
>
> My CPR is totally different, but appears from vacuum diagram in
Tech
> Manual that "carb" nipple points towards Tee and "dist" nipple
goes to
> CPR.
>
> Ford uses these things in horrifically complicated spark advance
> setup. When they switched to 4350 carburetor, moved spark advance
to a
> full time vacuum port. Then had to route through delay valves and
> ported vacuum switches just to make engine run. Stupid.
>
> Bill Robertson
> #5939
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2003 20:34:05 -0700 (PDT)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: POR 15
Well, you said that you wanted to use Black.. so why
are you asking?
Anyway, I did patch some cracked epoxy, and found the
por-15 grey to be a great match.. I was still
stubborn, and decided to put some epoxy over the
por-15 anyway (to make it all look the same), but must
have not mixed it correctly because the epoxy color
was too light!! Should have just left it por-15.
--- anaheim_21 <anaheim_21@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> Hey there,
>
> I am planning to use POR 15 when I restore parts of
> my frame next
> year. I want to use the chassicoat black rather
> than the gray, which
> would more closely match the original epoxy color.
>
> Does color matter?
>
>
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software
http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Thu, 11 Sep 2003 04:15:16 -0000
From: "deloreanss304" <maurit@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Delorean Tile Grout--No Kidding!
I was down at the Home Depot in the flooring section and to my
surprise there is a
tile grout color named "Delorean Gray" It should be called "Dirty
Delorean Gray" in my
opinion but, at least they tried! I wonder if someone at the
supplier (Custom Building
Products) is a Delorean fan or owner? Here is a link to the color
samples (see #165
Delorean Gray)
http://www.custombuildingproducts.com/installation/Groutcolors.htm
Mauri.
#3153
Austin, TX
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Thu, 11 Sep 2003 01:13:25 EDT
From: deloreanernst@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: orginal shop manual
In a message dated 9/10/2003 5:06:58 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
armac@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx writes:
> Just wondering what would be a fair price of a orginal factory shop
> manual in great condition with binder and all pages?
If you're getting it to crawl under the car with, get a repro manual. An
original manual is a nice piece of memorabilia. If you buy it, don't waste it on
greasy fingers. An original workshop manual in good condition usually goes
for $80 to $150, from my experience.
Wayne
11174
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Thu, 11 Sep 2003 06:45:35 -0000
From: "Adam 16683" <acprice1@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Tuning Idle Speed Circuit. (was: Re: idle problem)
I had my delay valve installed the other way, I just fixed it how you
instructed. It seems better! Thanks Harold.
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxx>
wrote:
> Yes! I am sure. It is easy to let the logic of the vacuum valve
fool
> you. Vacuum flows freely from the "Dist" side and is delayed from
> the "carb" side. It is the delay that must be applied to the
> pressure regulator bottom compartment to give the fuel spike. The
> vacuum is created while idling and drops (vacuum goes away) on
> the "Dist" side and upper regulator chamber during acceleration but
> is delayed on the "Carb" side. See the figure on page 52 of the
> Technical Information Manual. The circled "1" points to the delay
> valve. The side it points to is the "Carb" side.
>
> Harold McElraft - 3354
>
>
> --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Adam 16683" <acprice1@xxxx> wrote:
> > I am getting opposite opinions on which direction the delay valve
> is
> > supposed to face. Harold, are you sure that the "dist" side goes
> > toward the vacuum supply/tee fitting?
> > Adam Price 16683
> >
> >
> > --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Harold McElraft"
<hmcelraft@xxxx>
> > wrote:
> > > Is the delay valve installed in the correct direction? It is
the
> > > plastic vacuum valve located at the control pressure regulator.
> > > The "Dist" side goes on the vacuum supply side.
> > >
> > > Harold McElraft - 3354
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Thu, 11 Sep 2003 08:07:35 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Delorean Tile Grout--No Kidding!
This grout color hs been around almost as long as the
DeLorean. I don't know how the name came about, but I
remember seeing it 15-18 years ago.
BTW, it is the grout color used in my slate entryway.
Only problem is that it really shows fingerprints *
chuckle - chuckle*.
Dick Ryan
VIN 16867
--- deloreanss304 <maurit@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> I was down at the Home Depot in the flooring section
> and to my
> surprise there is a
> tile grout color named "Delorean Gray" It should be
> called "Dirty
> Delorean Gray" in my
> opinion but, at least they tried! I wonder if
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 7
Date: Thu, 11 Sep 2003 16:48:28 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Delorean in Hong Kong
May well be Ian Foster, Belfast resident living out there, has more than
one D, and I think at least one is in Honkers.....
mroboto@xxxxxxx wrote:
>On a slightly more serious note, I saw a Delorean in Hong Kong earlier this
>week. Anybody know who the owner is?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Thu, 11 Sep 2003 16:56:48 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Tuning Idle Speed Circuit. (was: Re: idle problem)
The vacuum enrichment on the DeLorean's CPR is only active under warm-up
conditions, at which time the distributor vacuum is disconnected. As the
CPR vac is removed, it is placed on the distributor (so to speak).
Martin
Harold McElraft wrote:
>I just read carefully the note you attached. The delay valve is in
>fact in a reversed condition than that called for in the D when used
>in a spark delay setup because the spark advance needs slowed down
>some to eliminate "ping". The "Carb" side in that case is attached
>to venturi vacuum which increases with throttle. The D setup is
>attached to manifold vacuum that decreases with throttle. The delay
>effect in the D is a bleed-down where the spark setup calls for a
>delay in applied vacuum.
>
>Harold McElraft - 3354
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 9
Date: Thu, 11 Sep 2003 17:28:30 -0000
From: "anaheim_21" <anaheim_21@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Fuel Pump Change
Hi:
I am having trouble removing the hoses from the fuel pump. The nuts
have seized and I don't want to torque it too much. Has anyone who
has gone through this have any pointers for me?
Greg
5968
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 10
Date: Thu, 11 Sep 2003 17:33:21 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: State Inspection
I just had my car inspected today by a State of New Jersey inspection
station. They are being operated by a private company under contract
by the State. New Jersey is 1 of only 2 states that has a "hybrid"
system ie: you can go to a "state" inspection station, or a PIF
(private inspection facility) aka a certified gas station. The
inspectors argued over who was going to get the chance to "do" the
car. They couldn't find the horn, gas tank, catalytic converter etc.
They won't let you near the car, sending you to a little shelter at
the far end while they get to play with your car. I stayed close so I
could watch the antics. I had requested the "Low Mileage Exemption"
which means if you use the car less than 10,000 in 2 years you only
get emission tested by the tailpipe at idle, not on the dyno. It's not
that I was worried about passing, I don't like the idea of them
running the car on a dyno. These people (inspectors) are not car
people and I am always worried about the way they handle the cars.
Anyway everything was alright until the end when they tested the gas
tank cap. The computer failed it. The last time I was inspected 2
years ago they had trouble finding the right adapter and eventually
passed me. This year they failed me! I went to the the manager and
they found in the listing for Delorean an * by [82 Delorean Gas Cap].
In effect it meant that they cannot fail the car for the gas cap! They
removed the reject sticker and replaced the inspection sticker with a
new Pass sticker. I have applied for Collector Status. I haven't got
it yet but it exempts you from inspection. Actually they still inspect
it for mileage, insurance, and age. When it gets to be 25 years old
you can get Historic plates and not deal with inspection anymore. For
anyone subject to inspections in their state try to be prepared and
know the rules in your state that you are subject to.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 11
Date: Thu, 11 Sep 2003 17:57:41 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Fuel Pump Change
Twist harder. That's really the only option, you can't go applying a
torch to a fuel pump for obvious reasons. Grab the pump with a huge
pair of channel-locks and get a bigger wrench/breaker bar. Since you
are replacing the fuel pump anyway there's nothing to lose. You may
need to unhook the other end of the hoses and take the whole mess out
of the car so you can get a better grip on the pump, but the other
end of the hoses will have the same problem. Just don't twist the
hard lines that disappear under the body (on top of the frame),
that's when things REALLY get interesting. .
Dave
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "anaheim_21" <anaheim_21@xxxx> wrote:
> Hi:
>
> I am having trouble removing the hoses from the fuel pump. The
nuts
> have seized and I don't want to torque it too much. Has anyone who
> has gone through this have any pointers for me?
>
> Greg
> 5968
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 12
Date: Thu, 11 Sep 2003 18:50:44 -0000
From: "Toby Peterson" <tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: State Inspection
In Washington state, we have state-run inspection stations that test
for emissions and gas cap only. The current emissions test is on a
dyno, but they allow rear wheel drive cars to be operated by the
owners. When I took Winged1 in last time, they couldn't put it on the
dyno because the car is too low. When the car settles onto the
rollers, the underbody is resting lightly on the floor. After much
review, considerable discussion amongst the workers, and a call to a
district manager, they simply gave me a static test (off the dyno) and
sent me on my way. The whole episode caused quite an uproar around
the station for awhile, until they got management involved. It was
quite comical. The car passed with no issues.
Toby Peterson VIN 2248
Winged1 - lowered about 3.5 inches in front, 1.75 inches in back
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxx>
wrote:
> I just had my car inspected today by a State of New Jersey
> inspection station. They are being operated by a private company
> under contract by the State. I had requested the "Low Mileage
> Exemption" which means if you use the car less than 10,000 in 2
> years you only get emission tested by the tailpipe at idle, not on
> the dyno. It's not that I was worried about passing, I don't like
> the idea of them running the car on a dyno.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 13
Date: Thu, 11 Sep 2003 15:00:53 EDT
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: POR 15
In a message dated 9/10/03 8:39:46 PM Central Daylight Time,
blane@xxxxxxxxxxxx writes:
> The original epoxy was Gray not Black.
>
> Bill Lane
> #3635
>
However, some of the cars began to show signs of rust at the QAC's, and they
applied a black undercoating to some cars to try to keep it clean.... mine is
an example, VIN 11596.
Andy
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 14
Date: Thu, 11 Sep 2003 15:02:48 EDT
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Re: Fuel Pump Change
In a message dated 9/11/03 12:59:38 PM Central Daylight Time,
swingle@xxxxxxxxxxx writes:
> Twist harder. That's really the only option, you can't go applying a
> torch to a fuel pump for obvious reasons. Grab the pump with a huge
> pair of channel-locks and get a bigger wrench/breaker bar. Since you
> are replacing the fuel pump anyway there's nothing to lose. You may
> need to unhook the other end of the hoses and take the whole mess out
> of the car so you can get a better grip on the pump, but the other
> end of the hoses will have the same problem. Just don't twist the
> hard lines that disappear under the body (on top of the frame),
> that's when things REALLY get interesting. .
>
> Dave
Agreed. This happened to me and i was able to remove both flexible lines
from the metal lines, pull the whole thing out of the car, and have a couple
friends hold the pump while i put the wrench on top. you might try tapping the
bolt head a few times before you give a good shot.
Andy
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 15
Date: Thu, 11 Sep 2003 15:53:35 -0400
From: <krasniy@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: State Inspection
That sounds annoying! I am happy that Florida currently does not have
inspections....or none that I am aware of anyways :)
-----Original Message-----
From: David Teitelbaum [mailto:jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Thursday, September 11, 2003 1:33 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] State Inspection
I just had my car inspected today by a State of New Jersey inspection
station. They are being operated by a private company under contract by
the State. New Jersey is 1 of only 2 states that has a "hybrid" system
ie: you can go to a "state" inspection station, or a PIF (private
inspection facility) aka a certified gas station. The inspectors argued
over who was going to get the chance to "do" the car. They couldn't find
the horn, gas tank, catalytic converter etc. They won't let you near the
car, sending you to a little shelter at the far end while they get to
play with your car. I stayed close so I could watch the antics. ..........
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 16
Date: Thu, 11 Sep 2003 14:37:18 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: POR 15
Andy's right. A number of the late models were
undercoated "by the factory". this came up at a
concours a number of years ago and Rob provided the
proof to the judges. An undercoated car won!
Dick Ryan
--- Soma576@xxxxxxx wrote:
> In a message dated 9/10/03 8:39:46 PM Central
> Daylight Time,
> blane@xxxxxxxxxxxx writes:
>
> > The original epoxy was Gray not Black.
> >
> > Bill Lane
> > #3635
> >
>
>
> However, some of the cars began to show signs of
> rust at the QAC's, and they
> applied a black undercoating to some cars to try to
> keep it clean.... mine is
> an example, VIN 11596.
>
> Andy
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 17
Date: Thu, 11 Sep 2003 21:55:04 -0000
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Squirrley steering
My crumple tube needs reinforcing. My steering is unmanageable and I
know that the tube is part of the problem but I've observed something
else;
I've had someone in the car to turn the steering wheel from
lock-to-lock.
Here's a twist: The entire steering rack is -sliding- from side to
side in it's mounts when you turn the wheel.
The frame metal isn't shifting like I thought. The brackets aren't
shifting. the rack is slipping in the rubber bushings in the brackets,
or rather the bushings (and rack) appear to be slipping in the brackets.
I know I need to fix the crumple tube but for the steering rack, do I
just need new bushings? Are the mounts broken? They don't look like
it. There are no cracks or sharp metal. The bolts underneath don't
look like they've backed off.
Can anyone take a picture of their brackets for me? I'm looking for a
view from above, through the brake master cylinder access plate.
What I don't understand is, it looks like the brackets were welded to
the crumple tube at the factory, yet there are bolts underneath to
remove them so obviously they come out.
I don't quite understand what I'm looking at. Help?
Rich
#5335
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 18
Date: Thu, 11 Sep 2003 21:59:32 -0000
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: State Inspection
Mike Cohee and I qualify for Maryland Historic plates and don't have
to fool with it thank God.
In Maryland if the vehicle is over 20 years old and the company is out
of business and the model isn't produced anymore, you qualify.
The 25 year applies if the company is still in business (like Ford).
I run into people in Maryland all the time who say "Hey! That's not
old enough!" because they don't research the law.
So...if you're in Maryland, read-n-heed. :)
Rich
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, <krasniy@xxxx> wrote:
> That sounds annoying! I am happy that Florida currently does not have
> inspections....or none that I am aware of anyways :)
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: David Teitelbaum [mailto:jtrealty@w...]
> Sent: Thursday, September 11, 2003 1:33 PM
> To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: [DML] State Inspection
>
>
>
> I just had my car inspected today by a State of New Jersey inspection
> station. They are being operated by a private company under contract by
> the State. New Jersey is 1 of only 2 states that has a "hybrid" system
> ie: you can go to a "state" inspection station, or a PIF (private
> inspection facility) aka a certified gas station. The inspectors argued
> over who was going to get the chance to "do" the car. They couldn't find
> the horn, gas tank, catalytic converter etc. They won't let you near the
> car, sending you to a little shelter at the far end while they get to
> play with your car. I stayed close so I could watch the antics.
..........
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 19
Date: Thu, 11 Sep 2003 23:21:07 -0000
From: "p12c16" <p12c16@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Cincinnati Car Show This Sunday
For those of you that live in or near Cincinnati, Ohio, there is a
car show going
on at Lunken Airport this Sunday (the 14th). http://www.airpix
photo.com/lukcars.htm I
hope we can get a lot of DeLoreans to attend, so far I know of three
that are
attending. If you plan on going let me know and that way whoever
gets there
first can save enough spots so all the Ds can be next to one another.
P12C16@xxxxxxx
I hope to see ya there,
Patrick
1880
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 20
Date: Thu, 11 Sep 2003 23:47:43 -0000
From: "dmcorlando2003" <SundeQuick@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Question about window regulators
I have the aftermarket window regulators in mycar (Don't most of us
by now =) ).
The problem is the attachment screw came out and over time, the lower
tube that comes out of the motor has become bent so it has worked
it's way loose. Even though I reconnected the screw and can get the
tube back in the moor housing correctly, it will only work for a
short time before the tube is pushed out from the motor housing and
the window won't go up all of the way and eventually gets all messed
up again...
My question is this...Does anyone know where I canget just the tube
that the cable runs through? The rest of it is fine and I hate to
spend $250 on a whole new setup...
Thanks
Michael
#2944
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 21
Date: Thu, 11 Sep 2003 19:24:24 -0500
From: "at88mph" <at88mph@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Master Cylinder bore/stroke
Could anyone tell me the exact bore and stroke of the clutch master
cylinder? I'm installing a Porsche 915 tranny and am trying to set up the
slave cylinder correctly and I'm not sure of the dimensions.
Thanks for any help!
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 22
Date: Thu, 11 Sep 2003 23:51:10 -0000
From: "Toby Peterson" <tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Squirrley steering
Rich - Funny you should bring this up ... One of our members (PNDC) is
having a problem with loose steering, with a lot of wandering, etc.
He was told that he had bad tie rod ends, but he is convinced that the
rack is moving laterally. He also has some damage to the crumple
tubes, and is further convinced that the frame extension is deflecting
as he steers the car, creating some of the loose feel. Last night, I
brought over an expert welder and metal worker to take measurements
for a reinforcement plate for the crumple tube area, and (if all works
out okay) we plan to offer a reinforcement kit for sale for people who
have some damage that they are concerned about. I suspect that Dave
T. will say something about affecting crash-worthiness, but I think we
can work around that issue successfully. I will be creating a mylar
template of the area this weekend, so I will look carefully at the
bushings and brackets to try to determine where the movement might be
coming from. I need to do that anyway, to support my fellow PNDC
member, as we have a club tech session coming up in a week and a half.
The brackets are not welded to the frame, but they do engage some
protrusions in the frame to prevent movement. Perhaps in your case
the nuts have loosened a little bit, and the brackets have disengaged
the frame protrusions?
Toby Peterson VIN 2248
Winged1
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxx> wrote:
> My crumple tube needs reinforcing. My steering is unmanageable and I
> know that the tube is part of the problem but I've observed
something
> else;
>
> I've had someone in the car to turn the steering wheel from
> lock-to-lock.
>
> Here's a twist: The entire steering rack is -sliding- from side to
> side in it's mounts when you turn the wheel.
>
> The frame metal isn't shifting like I thought. The brackets aren't
> shifting. the rack is slipping in the rubber bushings in the
brackets,
> or rather the bushings (and rack) appear to be slipping in the
brackets.
>
> I know I need to fix the crumple tube but for the steering rack, do
I
> just need new bushings? Are the mounts broken? They don't look like
> it. There are no cracks or sharp metal. The bolts underneath don't
> look like they've backed off.
>
> Can anyone take a picture of their brackets for me? I'm looking for
a
> view from above, through the brake master cylinder access plate.
>
> What I don't understand is, it looks like the brackets were welded
to
> the crumple tube at the factory, yet there are bolts underneath to
> remove them so obviously they come out.
>
> I don't quite understand what I'm looking at. Help?
>
> Rich
> #5335
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 23
Date: Thu, 11 Sep 2003 17:14:02 -0700 (PDT)
From: Steve Deichman <swdeichman@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: custom exhaust manifolds
As info, i used supertrap muffles, the work great and fit in well.
But i'm also looking for a new set as mine are leaking which create diaster on my turbos.
ken@xxxxxxx wrote:
I am just wondering if anybody out there has either made or found a set
of exhaust manifolds that are similar to the ones that DMC housten sells
I am wanting to make an exhaust system on the car that goes from the
engine to a muffler and that is it. no cats.
Please email me privately if you have any info
Thanks
Kenneth
05541
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Message: 24
Date: Fri, 12 Sep 2003 00:56:13 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Fuel Pump Change
A 3/8 air impact wrench does a great job taking off and putting back
on.
Harold McElraft - 3354
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "anaheim_21" <anaheim_21@xxxx> wrote:
> Hi:
>
> I am having trouble removing the hoses from the fuel pump. The
nuts
> have seized and I don't want to torque it too much. Has anyone
who
> has gone through this have any pointers for me?
>
> Greg
> 5968
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Message: 25
Date: Fri, 12 Sep 2003 01:41:26 -0000
From: "supermattthehero" <supermatty@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: State Inspection
I make it a point never to let anyone near my car without me being
closeby, whether it be at a car show or a garage. We have inspection
here in Pennsylvania, and I had it inspected this past August. I
think the mechanic knew what I wanted just by looking at it. He
allowed ME to drive the car into his garage; ME to operate all of the
required functions, i.e. turn signals, lights, horn; and it was ME who
was standing at most 6 feet away during the entire process. It makes
sense to me. I didn't spend 15 years of my life waiting to purchase
this car to have some unfamiliar mechanic take 15 seconds to break
something.
Matt
#1604
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, <krasniy@xxxx> wrote:
> That sounds annoying! I am happy that Florida currently does not have
> inspections....or none that I am aware of anyways :)
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: David Teitelbaum [mailto:jtrealty@w...]
> Sent: Thursday, September 11, 2003 1:33 PM
> To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: [DML] State Inspection
>
>
>
> I just had my car inspected today by a State of New Jersey inspection
> station. They are being operated by a private company under contract by
> the State. New Jersey is 1 of only 2 states that has a "hybrid" system
> ie: you can go to a "state" inspection station, or a PIF (private
> inspection facility) aka a certified gas station. The inspectors argued
> over who was going to get the chance to "do" the car. They couldn't find
> the horn, gas tank, catalytic converter etc. They won't let you near the
> car, sending you to a little shelter at the far end while they get to
> play with your car. I stayed close so I could watch the antics.
..........
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