To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
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------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 25 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: escaping after a rollover
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
2. Re: Rough day on the Rally
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
3. Changing Coolant - What are the steps? Change Temp Sensor?
From: "steve" <steve@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
4. Re: Angle Torque & head bolts
From: Richard Strecker <dmc1219@xxxxxxx>
5. Re: Change Windows In A DeLorean?
From: Louie Golden <louie@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
6. Re: Delorean Question
From: <eric@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
7. RE: Towing a Delorean to Pigeon Forge
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
8. low compression?
From: "jaysen15251" <jaysen15251@xxxxxxxxx>
9. Need Part = little pipe that goes from coupler to slave cylinder
From: "steve" <steve@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
10. Door Lock
From: Richard Strecker <dmc1219@xxxxxxx>
11. British Car Show in Ontario Sept 21
From: <ken@xxxxxxx>
12. Re: Toll Booth Window
From: "saalexander2000" <stuartalexander@xxxxxxxxxxx>
13. Changing Final Drive fluid
From: "thebrave65" <johnnysher1@xxxxxxx>
14. Evaporator Core
From: "Paul Salsbury" <paul.salsbury@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
15. Re: Door Lock
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
16. Re: Rough day on the Rally
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
17. Re: Delorean Question
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount@xxxxxxxx>
18. Re: low compression?
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
19. Re: Evaporator Core
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle@xxxxxxxxxxx>
20. Re: Changing Final Drive fluid ALSO other maintenence
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
21. Delorean MidAtlantic Fall Tour IV Details
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
22. A/C condenser X-ref found
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
23. Re: Toll Booth Window
From: "theshovel1224" <theshovel1224@xxxxxxxxx>
24. DeLorean will not start, Part II
From: "anaheim_21" <anaheim_21@xxxxxxxxx>
25. Re: Changing Final Drive fluid ALSO other maintenence
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Sun, 07 Sep 2003 16:01:36 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: escaping after a rollover
You might want to consider keeping a fire extinguisher in the car. Not
only can you put out a fire in your car (or someone else's) but you
can also use it to knock out the window or windscreen. I also read
where you should be able to force the door open enough to get out but
it seems to be a very rare occurence, rolling a Delorean. IMHO you
have a lot more to worry about. With the huge amount of SUV's on the
road a more likely scenario is getting trapped under one of them or a
big truck! When I stop at a traffic light I look around and all I see
is lugnuts!
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, deloreanernst@xxxx wrote:
> In a message dated 9/6/2003 6:47:01 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
> webmaster@xxxx writes:
>
>
> > all this poses the question: what DO we do in our DeLoreans to get
> > out in the event of a roll? The side windows are glued to the inside
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Sun, 07 Sep 2003 15:55:14 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Rough day on the Rally
For your clutch you should rebuild or replace the master cylinder. It
sounds like it is leakimg internaly and getting air inside. You may
also find the slave is going bad too. The brake fluid in the clutch
system (and the brake system) is supposed to be flushed and changed
every 2 years. It should be clear to slightly yellow, not dark and
thick. The recomended fluid is Castrol GTLMA DOT 4.
For the no start you really have to narrow down the system that is
malfunctioning. It usually comes down to spark or fuel. A general
"rule of thumb" is that failure without notice most often is
electrically based, running bad and then failure generally is fuel
system based. With this in mind see if there is any power at the fuel
pump, you didn't accidently knock the inertia switch (it is the recall
one with a white spot of paint on it, right?) and if the pump still
won't run check #7 fuse if it is blown or the fuse block melted. Too
bad about the rally. Nice story though. (I know I said fuel based
isn't sudden but the fuel system needs electric for the fuel pump).
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "schab932000" <schab932000@xxxx> wrote:
> I was 1 of 17 cars that showed up for the Ausitn Healy Rally
> before the big car show on the 4th of October.
>
> I was the only Delorean on the course and with years of Rally
> experience, felt I would be a strong contender with my dad as a
> co-pilot.
>
> Trouble began midway through. I was at a stop light and couldn't
> get into first without some severe grinding. I knew something
> was up, because the clutch pedal didn't feel right. I turned the car
> off and put it in first, then started back up and went to a lot to
> check things out. Everything looked good. Master cylinder was
> full, no leaking I could see, but there did appear to be some fluid
> around the cap. I wipped it clean, and replaced the cap. I got
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Sun, 07 Sep 2003 15:36:05 -0000
From: "steve" <steve@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Changing Coolant - What are the steps? Change Temp Sensor?
How much coolant do i need? what are the steps? my dash temp reader
doesn't register anything, how do i change temp sensors?
thanks
steve
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Sun, 07 Sep 2003 12:07:07 -0400
From: Richard Strecker <dmc1219@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Angle Torque & head bolts
FYI, the Angle Torque device is available at AutoZone for $9.99
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Sun, 7 Sep 2003 08:41:15 -0700 (PDT)
From: Louie Golden <louie@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Change Windows In A DeLorean?
Unfortunately this is another common urban myth about the DeLorean. A list member rolled his D 2-3 years ago, and this did not work. He had to wait for the car to be flipped over. So I guess our biggest safeguard for rollovers is having a functioning inertia switch, and a hammer to bust out the windows.
Louie Golden
VIN 10115
--- Mark Noeltner <mark@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>According to the DML archives, in case of a roll-over you should be >able to just push hard on the door and it will act as a lever and open >far enough for you to crawl through the opening. YMMV. I have no desire >to test this theory, but the shape and size of the door and the >position of the hinges makes it look like this should work.
>
>Mark N
>VIN 6820
_____________________________________________________________
Pre-order the updated second edition of "DeLorean: Stainless Steel Illusion" now! Details <a href="" href="http://www.stainless-steel-illusion.com">http://www.stainless-steel-illusion.com" target="_blank">here!</a>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Sun, 7 Sep 2003 14:26:45 -0400
From: <eric@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Delorean Question
Hey Dan
Here's my opinion-
The Delorean is superior to the Viper in all things but speed. It's much
more unique in all categories. From what I've heard (never driven one
personally), the Viper is basically a really fast brick, i.e. they don't
handle very well. I can personally assure you that although a bit slow, the
DeLorean is very fun to drive.
Versus the Acura, that's a little harder to judge. Once again, I've never
driven an Acura and I'm just speculating off others' knowledge, but the NSX
is a fine car. I think the DeLorean wins in uniqueness and style, but at a
slimmer margin than with the Viper. As far as maintenance goes, Honda/Acura
has a fine record that beats DeLorean's.
I guess it all depends on your personal tastes.
Eric Itzel
vin 4433
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan McNasby" <dan_mcnasby@xxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Friday, September 05, 2003 7:54 PM
Subject: [DML] Delorean Question
>
> I am very interested in buying a Delorean but would like to know what are
the relative merits of the DeLorean over the Following Cars (basically, why
buy the delorean over the following) are:
>
> 1. 1994 Dodge Viper RT/10
>
> 2. 1995 Acura NSX
>
> Why is the DeLorean better to own than the above cars?
>
> Thanks for the input!
>
> Dan
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 7
Date: Sun, 7 Sep 2003 14:44:44 -0400
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Towing a Delorean to Pigeon Forge
Is anyone from the NJ, NY, PA and surrounding area interested in getting
a group car hauler?
I am going to price it out and see how much it comes out to. Then you
don't have to drive down to the show, or put the milage on your car.
Let me know if you are interested, and where you live. E-mail me off
the post at delorean(at)abato.net
Kevin Abato
Vin# 16680
-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Brandys [mailto:BobB@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Saturday, September 06, 2003 9:05 AM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [DML] Towing a Delorean to Pigeon Forge
Kevin,
I have towed my Delorean to two shows. I rented a car hauler from U
Haul around $300 for about 5 days.
You also need a tow vehicle. This is something that can handle a Class
3 trailer hitch. This is a full size truck or pick up. These also
rent for about $350 for 5 days. Most give some free mileage, but this
is another expense.
A group car hauler (6 car minimum) would be less expensive and a lot
hassle when traveling.
BOB
To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx
For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
www.dmcnews.com
To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Sun, 07 Sep 2003 17:41:04 -0000
From: "jaysen15251" <jaysen15251@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: low compression?
I recently purched an 81 from an auction , needs alot of work but i
knew that going in , while removing the belts and hoses i decided to
turn over the engine with a socket wrench ,and noticed it was much
easier than i anticipated, im going to continue as planned and was
hopping to try and get it to start by october , should i be concerned
about this ??
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 9
Date: Sun, 07 Sep 2003 20:27:44 -0000
From: "steve" <steve@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Need Part = little pipe that goes from coupler to slave cylinder
This is very easy to take off, provided your nuts (bolts) at each end
aren't corroded like mine were. I broke my pipe while tryng to take
it off - the nut at one side would not turn.
please lemme know,
thanks
steve
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 10
Date: Sun, 07 Sep 2003 14:46:16 -0400
From: Richard Strecker <dmc1219@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Door Lock
I'm in the process of rebuilding a door and one of the final items is
moving the lock cylinder from one door to the other. The donor door
cylinder is held in by an easily removable slide clip, the old door
looks like the cylinder was pushed in and is captive by a plastic ring.
Any ideas as to removing the one with the ring?
Thanks in advance,
Richard
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 11
Date: Sun, 7 Sep 2003 13:43:56 -0400
From: <ken@xxxxxxx>
Subject: British Car Show in Ontario Sept 21
For anybody in the area.. On September 21 there will be a british car
show at Bronte Park in Oakville Ontario
More info
http://odoc.ca/events.htm
thanks
Ken
005541
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 12
Date: Sun, 07 Sep 2003 17:12:09 -0000
From: "saalexander2000" <stuartalexander@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Toll Booth Window
This is a horrible job! Take out the lights at either end of the door so you can
see in from each end, then get each guide on it's runner and it should push
up. It's not easy though and the stainless cuts your hands while you try. It
should go eventually though. Took me most of a day to do. A warning to
others: don't let the glass slip off the end of the runners or you'll be doing this
too.
Stuart
16686
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "dmc121" <dmc1219@xxxx> wrote:
> What's the trick to reinstalling the window? I'm rebuilding a door &
> have gotten to the point of installing the toll booth window glass &
> it just doesn't seem to want to go easily. I can get the nylon guides
> started on the metal runners but can't seem to get the top ends to
> align. Most suggestions accepted.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 13
Date: Sun, 07 Sep 2003 20:37:14 -0000
From: "thebrave65" <johnnysher1@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Changing Final Drive fluid
Hi. I've been preparing myself mentally for my purchase which looks
to be in January. I've been reading my parts and workshop manuals
and saw that on an automatic, (that's what I'm getting), there is a
final drive fluid that needs to be checked/changed. What my question
is: does this need to be changed as often as the trans fluid and what
type of oil is used for it? I didn't even know about it until I read
more of the workshop manual.
That what scares me the most - finding stuff I had no idea even
existed in the Delorean that needs maintenance.
Johnny
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 14
Date: Sun, 7 Sep 2003 23:15:38 +0100
From: "Paul Salsbury" <paul.salsbury@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Evaporator Core
Hi there all
Does any one have an evaporator core out of their car? I am looking for a measurement of the length of the two pipes, from the point where they meet to the connectors. Mine has had the connectors taken off. As it is now out of the car If the pipes are long enough I can have then replaced.
Cheers
Paul
#6463
www.paul.salsbury.btinternet.co.uk
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 15
Date: Mon, 08 Sep 2003 00:04:11 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Door Lock
The old style plastic snap-rings break very easily when you try to
remove it. I don't know anyone who's managed to take one off intact. It
is possible to retain it with the new style clip, but the better
solution is to go for the later style locks full stop.
Martin
Richard Strecker wrote:
>I'm in the process of rebuilding a door and one of the final items is
>moving the lock cylinder from one door to the other. The donor door
>cylinder is held in by an easily removable slide clip, the old door
>looks like the cylinder was pushed in and is captive by a plastic ring.
> Any ideas as to removing the one with the ring?
>
>Thanks in advance,
>Richard
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 16
Date: Sun, 07 Sep 2003 23:42:09 -0000
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Rough day on the Rally
Clutch:
Verify that the firewall on the pedal side is dry and the fluid level
in the resevoir.
Wet= Master Cylinder failure.
Low Fluid= leak at Master cylinder, hose between master cylinder and
resevoir or Slave Cylinder failure.
Check for puddle underneath tranny to check the slave cyl.
Failure to Start:
1. Check #1 & #7 fuses. If good,
2. Check RPM relay (large, green, square). Pop the cover off the
relay and make sure the contacts close when cranking the engine.
3. Check inertia switch. If you have the old one, they melt sometimes
and you may have an open. Make sure the red plunger is DOWN on it as
well.
That'll hold you for a while. Let us know.
Rich #5335
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "schab932000" <schab932000@xxxx>
wrote:
> I was 1 of 17 cars that showed up for the Ausitn Healy Rally
> before the big car show on the 4th of October.
>
> I was the only Delorean on the course and with years of Rally
> experience, felt I would be a strong contender with my dad as a
> co-pilot.
>
> Trouble began midway through. I was at a stop light and couldn't
> get into first without some severe grinding. I knew something
> was up, because the clutch pedal didn't feel right. I turned the
car
> off and put it in first, then started back up and went to a lot to
> check things out. Everything looked good. Master cylinder was
> full, no leaking I could see, but there did appear to be some fluid
> around the cap. I wipped it clean, and replaced the cap. I got
> back in the car and pumped the clutch a few tiimes and started it
> up. It seams to work fine, but throughout the Rally, I felt the
same
> issue with the clutch pedal. It wasn't giving the same resistance,
> but not not all the time. When this happened, it didn't shift
> properly. I should note it wasn't just a first gear issue. From a
> dead stop, I couldn't shift into any gears without it grinding.
>
> I had to turn the car off several times to get into first during
the
> rally. A few notes: Clutch and throwout bearing was replaced with
> 17,000 miles. It now has 24,000. The hydrolic line is braided
> stainless steel, not plastic.
>
> Please provide advice.
>
> Now you would think one failure would be enough, right...
>
> Not so. We decided to make a pit stop in the middle on Oswego
> near a farmers field. We both go out and returned to the car. I
> turned the key and the engine cranked fine, but wouldn't start. I'm
> guessing the fuel pump since I didn't smell any gas, and I didn't
> hear a buzzing noise from the fill cap when I turned the key.
>
> Help again!
>
> That did it, after waiting for the engine to cool (thinking it was
a
> hot start issue, with no results), the farmer came by and lent me
> his cell phone to call the tow truck. Thanks mister farmer!
>
> I never finished the rally of course, but I have another one coming
> up at the end of this month if I can it back on the road with all
of
> your help.
>
> Thanks, Pat vin 5443
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 17
Date: Sun, 7 Sep 2003 19:30:24 -0400
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Delorean Question
Your judgement of the Viper is unfounded.
In a brief search for lateral acceleration, I found:
Delorean: .86
NSX : .89
Viper : .99
It's handling is rivalled only by the newer vettes, ie z06, Mclaren f1,
and ferrari f50/f40.
I can understand preferring the Delorean, but to call it superior is
insanity.
Jim
1537
On Sun, 7 Sep 2003 14:26:45 -0400 <eric@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> writes:
> Hey Dan
>
> Here's my opinion-
>
> The Delorean is superior to the Viper in all things but speed. It's
> much
> more unique in all categories. From what I've heard (never driven
> one
> personally), the Viper is basically a really fast brick, i.e. they
> don't
> handle very well. I can personally assure you that although a bit
> slow, the
> DeLorean is very fun to drive.
>
> Versus the Acura, that's a little harder to judge. Once again, I've
> never
> driven an Acura and I'm just speculating off others' knowledge, but
> the NSX
> is a fine car. I think the DeLorean wins in uniqueness and style,
> but at a
> slimmer margin than with the Viper. As far as maintenance goes,
> Honda/Acura
> has a fine record that beats DeLorean's.
>
> I guess it all depends on your personal tastes.
>
> Eric Itzel
> vin 4433
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Dan McNasby" <dan_mcnasby@xxxxxxxxx>
> To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Friday, September 05, 2003 7:54 PM
> Subject: [DML] Delorean Question
>
>
> >
> > I am very interested in buying a Delorean but would like to know
> what are
> the relative merits of the DeLorean over the Following Cars
> (basically, why
> buy the delorean over the following) are:
> >
> > 1. 1994 Dodge Viper RT/10
> >
> > 2. 1995 Acura NSX
> >
> > Why is the DeLorean better to own than the above cars?
> >
> > Thanks for the input!
> >
> > Dan
> >
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 18
Date: Sun, 7 Sep 2003 21:13:28 EDT
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: low compression?
In a message dated 9/7/03 5:35:28 PM Central Daylight Time,
jaysen15251@xxxxxxxxx writes:
> I recently purched an 81 from an auction , needs alot of work but i
> knew that going in , while removing the belts and hoses i decided to
> turn over the engine with a socket wrench ,and noticed it was much
> easier than i anticipated, im going to continue as planned and was
> hopping to try and get it to start by october , should i be concerned
> about this ??
When i was doing a valve adjustment last winter, i had my valve covers off
and have to turn the crankshaft manually as part of the job. i remember that as
i turned the crank, the resistance went up and down kind of like a sine wave
with each rotation. easy, then harder, easy, then harder (the difference
between the two was not immense but noticeable). with each resistance change, i
could hear the engine 'breathing' like a bellows as the pistons compressed and
then let out the air. if you don't hear this breathing and it is the same
resistance as you go, my guess would be a compression problem as you suspect.
Andy
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 19
Date: Sun, 07 Sep 2003 23:44:25 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Evaporator Core
The large tube is approximately 20 inches long, the smaller one is
approximately 17 inches. Measured from where the pipes join the
evaporator to the end of the connector including the fitting.
>From the point where the pipes meet is mor lie 10 inches from the
backside of the smaller tube.
I'm using approximations because the pipes have some sharp bends that
are hard to follow with a tape measure.
Would photos help?
Dave Swingle
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Paul Salsbury" <paul.salsbury@xxxx>
wrote:
> Hi there all
>
> Does any one have an evaporator core out of their car? I am
looking for a measurement of the length of the two pipes, from the
point where they meet to the connectors. Mine has had the connectors
taken off. As it is now out of the car If the pipes are long enough I
can have then replaced.
>
> Cheers
> Paul
> #6463
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 20
Date: Sun, 7 Sep 2003 21:38:24 EDT
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Changing Final Drive fluid ALSO other maintenence
In a message dated 9/7/03 5:38:11 PM Central Daylight Time,
johnnysher1@xxxxxxx writes:
> Hi. I've been preparing myself mentally for my purchase which looks
> to be in January. I've been reading my parts and workshop manuals
> and saw that on an automatic, (that's what I'm getting), there is a
> final drive fluid that needs to be checked/changed. What my question
> is: does this need to be changed as often as the trans fluid and what
> type of oil is used for it? I didn't even know about it until I read
> more of the workshop manual.
>
> That what scares me the most - finding stuff I had no idea even
> existed in the Delorean that needs maintenance.
>
> Johnny
the owner's manual says to change the final drive oil more or less every 15K
miles with the transmission oil every 30K. the oil is your typical 80w90 or
75w90 gear oil. you can probably get away with changing it every 2 years if it
is not your primary vehicle.
actually i have a maintence schedule that i follow each year. i divide most
services into 2 year intervals, but i change the engine oil once or twice a
year depending on how many miles i put on it.
first year:
change brake fluid and clutch fluid (GTLMA)
change manual trans oil.
change oil, grease chassis (4 fittings on mine)
check air filter (K&N).
second year:
change antifreeze.
change fuel filter
change oil, grease chassis.
check air filter.
each service time takes most of the afternoon. i will also make sure my strut
mounts are tight for the doors, lubricate the power antenna and other struts
and hinges, check my suspension struts for leaks, check for brake or other
disastrous leaks. each time i clean my interior i also put conditioner on my
door weatherstripping.
i try to remember to check my tires for proper pressure once or month or
before i go on a trip or take it out of storage.
for other maintenece, i always remove my nose bra when i wash the car (always
by hand) and clean the bra. when i wash the car i make sure to spray out the
suspension and the frame, as well as lightly spraying the dust off the engine
and using universal dressing for a fresh and shiny look on my repainted
intake manifold and valve covers. I clean the interior with DMC leather care or
Hide Food every month or two depending on usage. i also get the motor steam
cleaned and my carpets shampooed every spring when i take the car out of storage.
every other year i use the blending pad to rebrush the stainless. i detail
the side molding, tires, and all other outside plastic piece with eagle-1 tire
dressing which works awesome since it is UV protectant. between washes i use
windex to freshen up the body from dust (even though the car is usually covered
in my garage when i'm not using it.
If you love your car, you won't look at this stuff as a chore or a hassle,
but rather a time for you to get away from the stresses of your regular life and
show your car how much you love it! you will also save money and time by
maintaining your fluids properly.
Andy
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 21
Date: Sun, 7 Sep 2003 21:42:15 -0400
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Delorean MidAtlantic Fall Tour IV Details
We have officially updated the MidAtlantic club web site to include
details on the upcoming fall tour.
Details (still changing, but getting closer to being final) are
available at http://www.deloreanmidatlantic.com/updates/updates.htm
All future details will be posted to the site.
If you have any questions, feel free to e-mail them to
falltour@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Hope to see you all there!
Kevin Abato
Vin# 16680
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Message: 22
Date: Sun, 7 Sep 2003 21:56:48 EDT
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
Subject: A/C condenser X-ref found
List,
while surfing the net at a computer class for brain dead users in college
(required credits), i stumbled on this little gem. <A HREF="" href="Http://www.ezbodyparts.com">Http://www.ezbodyparts.com">Http://www.ezbodyparts.com</A>
sells A/C condensers for DeLoreans for $216. i have no idea on the quality or
interchangability of this part, but if you need one that's not used and you
don't have much cash, i'm sure it's worth checking out.
Andy
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Message: 23
Date: Mon, 08 Sep 2003 02:05:34 -0000
From: "theshovel1224" <theshovel1224@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Toll Booth Window
You guys are making a mountain out of a molehill. This really isn't
that hard of a job. Of course I have done this several times on my
car, so I think it is a pretty easy job. All you need is a slotted
screwdriver or 2. Just work through the access holes in the upper
part of the door to ease the rest of the guides on with a screwdriver,
pulling on the top of the metal on the inside of the door if
neccessary. Tape the edges of the access holes or wear gloves, the
metal is sharp. I use tape cause I need to be able to get my fingers
through the access holes & I think the gloves just get in the way.
John Yeoman
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "saalexander2000"
<stuartalexander@xxxx> wrote:
> This is a horrible job! Take out the lights at either end of the
door so you can
> see in from each end, then get each guide on it's runner and it
should push
> up. It's not easy though and the stainless cuts your hands while
you try. It
> should go eventually though. Took me most of a day to do. A
warning to
> others: don't let the glass slip off the end of the runners or
you'll be doing this
> too.
>
> Stuart
>
> 16686
>
>
>
> --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "dmc121" <dmc1219@xxxx> wrote:
> > What's the trick to reinstalling the window? I'm rebuilding a
door &
> > have gotten to the point of installing the toll booth window
glass &
> > it just doesn't seem to want to go easily. I can get the nylon
guides
> > started on the metal runners but can't seem to get the top ends to
> > align. Most suggestions accepted.
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Message: 24
Date: Mon, 08 Sep 2003 12:11:12 -0000
From: "anaheim_21" <anaheim_21@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DeLorean will not start, Part II
Hello All:
Thank you for all your help thus far. Here's the latest:
When I pour gas into the throttle the car will run for about 15
seconds, or until the fuel burns off. I am wondering if the next
step would involve cleaning my fuel injectors, or replacing the fuel
filter. The car has only 1753 miles on it, so I am assuming that a
lot of gunk deposited on the injector heads and perhaps that's what
causing the problem.
Also I removed the spark plugs and they have carbon deposits on them,
indicating a rich fuel / air mixture.
Am I on the right track? What is my next step?
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Message: 25
Date: Mon, 08 Sep 2003 04:26:19 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Changing Final Drive fluid ALSO other maintenence
It is not so important to change it. Think of it like the differential
(rear end) in an ordinary car. The oil doesn't break down and it
doesn't get full of products of combustion, it is just a gearbox. Most
important is to make sure the level is correct. Since the car is 20 +
years old and you don't know when it was changed last or what was put
in it, it is no big deal to change it. 85/90# gear oil is what to put
in. You do need the adapter to remove the drain and fill plugs and
inspect the drain plug for any debris if it is the magnet type. If it
isn't you can order one and get some new copper washers. You should
drive the car before draining to get the oil warm-hot so it drains
easier and all the dirt is in suspension so it comes out with the old oil.
What is of greater importance is the brake fluid. If it hasn't been
changed in along time when you do change it you will probably soon
find the calipers and master cylinder leaking. Expect to do a COMPLETE
cooling system service replacing EVERY hose, water pump, belts, pulley
bearings, thermostat, gaskets, and seals. In many cars these [arts are
still the origionals!
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Soma576@xxxx wrote:
> In a message dated 9/7/03 5:38:11 PM Central Daylight Time,
> johnnysher1@xxxx writes:
>
> > Hi. I've been preparing myself mentally for my purchase which looks
> > to be in January. I've been reading my parts and workshop manuals
> > and saw that on an automatic, (that's what I'm getting), there is a
> > final drive fluid that needs to be checked/changed. What my question
> > is: does this need to be changed as often as the trans fluid and what
> > type of oil is used for it? I didn't even know about it until I read
> > more of the workshop manual.
> >
> > That what scares me the most - finding stuff I had no idea even
> > existed in the Delorean that needs maintenance.
> >
> > Johnny
>
> the owner's manual says to change the final drive oil more or less
nd my carpets shampooed every spring when i take the car out of storage.
> every other year i use the blending pad to rebrush the stainless. i
detail
> the side molding, tires, and all other outside plastic piece with
eagle-1 tire
> dressing which works awesome since it is UV protectant. between
washes i use
> windex to freshen up the body from dust (even though the car is
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